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Routes in Middle Tier

Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In the Buckets TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jungle Book T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two in One S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 208 total, 1/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 23, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

The direct route to the coldshuts on the right side of the middle tier. These are located about 15' to the left of the crack (5.7).

This route is pretty straight forward, climb up into the bowl, and then work your way up and right up the cracklike feature on the rock. The crux is the top of the crack, though you can add another mini-crux by traversing over to the top anchor at the top instead of topping out.

Protection

Coldshuts on top, use a sling (5'+) to avoid rope drag on the rock.

Photos

Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
This route is now called "Two for One". .10a to the left, .11a to the right.

The old anchor which has been bad for the past decade finally blew out and has been replaced by two new glue-ins. Chain and quicklinks should be added to these anchors to minimize rope scarring and discourage TRing through the glue-in anchors. Feb 4, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d
Another possible variation is either getting into the initial cave from the left side or the right side. The left side appears to be more difficult, and some is balancey fun. The move is complicated by the fact you have to do tricky foot/body positioning while getting your fingers to stick the small seam of a sandy sloper. I ended up crucified on two small holds while doing some dance steps. I did the top as Tony Bubb did, but, unlike him, I think these two variations make the climb a solid 5.10D, as previously rated. Oct 24, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
OK route, short and reasonably solid. sandy though...The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors.

Too sandy to be a good route- not bad, true, but definately not good.

The grade of 5.10c is probably about right as I did it, which is how it is described, going up the rock to the seam, up on the seam, then traversing back left below the bolt anchor. You can also go to the bowl, traverse left 6 feet (10a), then climb back up and right to the anchors to make it easier.

One of the bolts at the TR anchor is a nasty spinner that is obviously fracturing out of the rock and should be replaced very soon. Contributing to this failure rate is probably the tendancy for people to TR through both anchors iwth no draws, multiplying and re-directing the orces on those anchors. Sep 22, 2003