Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,617 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

About 20 feet right of the crack on the middle tier, there's a cave with a pot leaf etched into the sandstone. The route climbs the arete on the left of the cave.

The route is fun and overhanging with a very strength-intensive crux. The sand stone in the cave is so bad that it makes smearing on it nearly impossible, but the holds on the arete are mostly high quality rock.

Since this route hadn't been climbed in a while, I'm kinda wondering if anyone knows who first did it, why the bolts were cut and if my guess for the difficulty was correct.

Protection

The top rope for this route is pretty difficult to set up. There used to be bolts in the rock above the route, but they have been removed. So instead, traverse to the right from the tree above the 5.7 crack. Loop a sling around the large boulder at about the tree's height and that will be your anchor. Also, some trad gear may be a good idea to back it up.

Photos

Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
I climbed this route a few times. I don't think its anywhere near .11d though. I've climbed up the center crack in the cave also which is much harder. Its like a .11++ one move wonder. Good reachy finger lock followed by a powerfull mante. Good stuff. I set my top rope up by looping the wire of several nuts over the old bolt studs. Kinda sketch, but I wasn't going to fall anyway.....Pffft. Jun 22, 2006
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Seemed easier to me, too, but I climbed some of the left face into the arete. There is now a selection of newish bolts on the top to choose from for a top rope. Needs 15' or more of extension. Dec 5, 2008
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
Fun climb. Started on the hole through the rock above head height, did a few moves then went on the arete. Since I was scared of leading up to the second bolt I set up a TR by climbing the crack to the left to the tree, traversing at tree height to the cave, placed a mediocre #2 in the cave then finished the rest. Jul 7, 2014
Michael Thielvoldt
San Jose
 
Michael Thielvoldt   San Jose
 
There are presently two glue-ins with chain at the top, and glue-ins also along the route. Tethering to get to the top anchor is tricky. A two-bolt station that is above and accessible without a tether, will pull you to the right of where you need to get to. I used the bolts from a route to the left to center my static line above the anchor. Jul 4, 2017