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Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Boone Speed, 1989
Page Views: 15,206 total, 74/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jan 1, 2001
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America. It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d. This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.

Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.

On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.

Protection

Bolts. There are usually in situ QDs in place, except for the first bolt
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12c
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12c
There isn't a hard move on this thing, but it's still a tough redpoint since the smallest holds come at the very top. I give it 12c. Oct 26, 2009
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I onsighted it earlier this year. Angle felt steep after 2 weeks in Joshua Tree. Enjoyable route: 5.11 to a V3 or 4 boulder problem is accurate; puts it at around .12b in my book.

But wait...all but the first quickdraw were hung and I saw someone fall off of it so that would make it more of a "First go, pinkpoint, knew where the crux was but not what it was, flash" than a pure onsight. Dec 19, 2008
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
There is nothing "thuggish" about this route. I say 12d. People are quick to downgrade this route becuase many "cruise the lower section" only to take a number of tries to get the redpoint. I'm sure that there are very few true onsights of the Gift. May 30, 2007
426
426  
That's what Bachar made it look like...well, I guess 3rd class is more "accurately" descriptive.

I can still hear the tinny sounds of "Living in America" from his Walkman... Mar 19, 2007
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
5.11 to a v4 crux Feb 12, 2007
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.12+
onsighted to to crux but not any further--------12+ Jan 26, 2006
10b4me  
This grade debate is splitting hairs. 12c to 12d, wuddever. Aug 17, 2004
10b4me  
Randy if you haven't been on it in 8-years than I could see why you would say soft. Just remember, everytime it rains at RR, there will STILL be people climbing at the Gallery. Many of the holds have broken down over time from people climbing during wet weather. Some of the positive holds are not so positive anymore and some are just flat out gone. If you think its soft, jump on it now and send it up. I bet you just might change your mind! Jun 28, 2004
Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
I was trying to be fair, but since you push the issue, No Way is the route 12d. 12b/c is really more like it, OK? There are 12bs at Josh and Rifle that are harder. Almost no technique is required, only endurance. It is a good route, but let's not get overly effusive. Apr 1, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Funny Max, I figure if I make a living habbit of dogging 12d's, then maybe I'd know what one feels like dogging it. Or maybe if I can't buy my way up a 10c, but I bought my way up this, then maybe my opinion is still valid.

Or maybe if you don't on-sight it, you aren't entitiled to an opinion either and a red point is the same as a hangdog to me. In which case, I bet your opinion is also invalid.

I think any qualified opinion is valid, just be clear and state what your experience with teh route is, TR, hangdog, or On-sight. Mar 17, 2004
Max Schon
  5.12d
Max Schon  
  5.12d
It's .12c if you cruise it, and .12d if you barely send it. If you don't send it, well, you don't have the right to grade it. Honestly people, who cares if its a "soft" .12d? The route is incredible, with awesome moves. Mar 16, 2004
Randy
  5.12c
Randy  
  5.12c
It has been probably 8 years since I did this route, but (like almost all Red Rocks routes) it was very soft for the 12d rating. I was a bit disappointed when it got downrated to 12c, but that is really a fairer grade. Feb 24, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Joe's description is a good one. I recall at the time (10+ years ago) thinking the route felt 'soft' for 12d, because at that time (and come to think of it, still) I usually can't buy my way up a 12d. The thing is, my opinion was unqualified, because I never red-pointed it (hang). I distinctly remember people shouting 'dynamic' beta at me through the lower section but doing it static and calling it 11+ though the lower part, but at the top I was wiped out and hung for minutes before finishing. So Joe's advice seems right on. The grade? Hard to say... I've only been on or done a few routes at that grade- most were 'harder' (more dificult, tricky or technical) but maybe this grade is correct.It did seem to me, and still does, that I climbed a few letter grades harder at Redrocks than in most other places. Feb 24, 2004