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The Gift

5.12d, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 82 votes
FA: Boone Speed, 1989
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 04-Second Pullo… > Gallery
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

One of the best and most famous hard-12 sport climbs in North America. It's been called 12c for years, but most of the current guidebooks now rate it 12d. This is an awesome, steep, strenuous route, involving thuggish climbing to a delicate crux at the very end.

Much of the climbing in the lower section would probably clock in at about 12a/b. The crux, involving a technical high step and reach to an elusive pebble, is not that hard in of itself, but the precision required for this move is usually hard to come by after the pumpy climbing below. For those who project in this grade range, the key to the redpoint is to ruthlessly wire the lower section so that one can arrive at the crux fresh.

On a sunny winter day, one can enjoyably spend the afternoon watching numerous people cruising the lower section only to be spit off by the crux, again and again and again.

Protection

Bolts. There are usually in situ QDs in place, except for the first bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Bachar free-soloing The Gift
[Hide Photo] John Bachar free-soloing The Gift
Yann Gauthier cruxing on The Gift, Red Rocks. I guess road-tripping does make you strong.
[Hide Photo] Yann Gauthier cruxing on The Gift, Red Rocks. I guess road-tripping does make you strong.
Josh LaMar about halfway up on the gift. Photo by Sean Buehler https://www.mountainproject.com/u/Sean%20Buehler/200185615
[Hide Photo] Josh LaMar about halfway up on the gift. Photo by Sean Buehler https://www.mountainproject.com/u/Sean%20Buehler/200185615
No send but cool shot.
[Hide Photo] No send but cool shot.
Preston Edwards redpoints The Gift.
[Hide Photo] Preston Edwards redpoints The Gift.
Steph Marvez takes a burn on Boone's classic, The Gift.
[Hide Photo] Steph Marvez takes a burn on Boone's classic, The Gift.
Wolfgang Braun moving through the first crux of The Gift.
[Hide Photo] Wolfgang Braun moving through the first crux of The Gift.
Urs half way up The Gift 5.12d in Red Rocks, Nevada.
[Hide Photo] Urs half way up The Gift 5.12d in Red Rocks, Nevada.
The Gallery
[Hide Photo] The Gallery
The Gift at Sunset
[Hide Photo] The Gift at Sunset
Scott Cosgrove on The Gift (5.12d), Red Rock<br>
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Photo by Greg Epperson (http://www.gregepperson.com/)
[Hide Photo] Scott Cosgrove on The Gift (5.12d), Red Rock Photo by Greg Epperson (http://www.gregepperson.com/)
Chris Deulen entering the crux of "The Gift."
[Hide Photo] Chris Deulen entering the crux of "The Gift."

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Joe's description is a good one. I recall at the time (10+ years ago) thinking the route felt 'soft' for 12d, because at that time (and come to think of it, still) I usually can't buy my way up a 12d. The thing is, my opinion was unqualified, because I never red-pointed it (hang). I distinctly remember people shouting 'dynamic' beta at me through the lower section but doing it static and calling it 11+ though the lower part, but at the top I was wiped out and hung for minutes before finishing. So Joe's advice seems right on. The grade? Hard to say... I've only been on or done a few routes at that grade- most were 'harder' (more dificult, tricky or technical) but maybe this grade is correct.It did seem to me, and still does, that I climbed a few letter grades harder at Redrocks than in most other places. Feb 24, 2004
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] It has been probably 8 years since I did this route, but (like almost all Red Rocks routes) it was very soft for the 12d rating. I was a bit disappointed when it got downrated to 12c, but that is really a fairer grade. Feb 24, 2004
Max Schon
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] It's .12c if you cruise it, and .12d if you barely send it. If you don't send it, well, you don't have the right to grade it. Honestly people, who cares if its a "soft" .12d? The route is incredible, with awesome moves. Mar 16, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] Funny Max, I figure if I make a living habbit of dogging 12d's, then maybe I'd know what one feels like dogging it. Or maybe if I can't buy my way up a 10c, but I bought my way up this, then maybe my opinion is still valid.

Or maybe if you don't on-sight it, you aren't entitiled to an opinion either and a red point is the same as a hangdog to me. In which case, I bet your opinion is also invalid.

I think any qualified opinion is valid, just be clear and state what your experience with teh route is, TR, hangdog, or On-sight. Mar 17, 2004
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] I was trying to be fair, but since you push the issue, No Way is the route 12d. 12b/c is really more like it, OK? There are 12bs at Josh and Rifle that are harder. Almost no technique is required, only endurance. It is a good route, but let's not get overly effusive. Apr 1, 2004
[Hide Comment] Randy if you haven't been on it in 8-years than I could see why you would say soft. Just remember, everytime it rains at RR, there will STILL be people climbing at the Gallery. Many of the holds have broken down over time from people climbing during wet weather. Some of the positive holds are not so positive anymore and some are just flat out gone. If you think its soft, jump on it now and send it up. I bet you just might change your mind! Jun 28, 2004
[Hide Comment] This grade debate is splitting hairs. 12c to 12d, wuddever. Aug 17, 2004
d-know
electric lady land
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] onsighted to to crux but not any further--------12+ Jan 26, 2006
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] 5.11 to a v4 crux Feb 12, 2007
426
[Hide Comment] That's what Bachar made it look like...well, I guess 3rd class is more "accurately" descriptive.

I can still hear the tinny sounds of "Living in America" from his Walkman... Mar 19, 2007
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
[Hide Comment] There is nothing "thuggish" about this route. I say 12d. People are quick to downgrade this route becuase many "cruise the lower section" only to take a number of tries to get the redpoint. I'm sure that there are very few true onsights of the Gift. May 30, 2007
Drewsky
 
[Hide Comment] I onsighted it earlier this year. Angle felt steep after 2 weeks in Joshua Tree. Enjoyable route: 5.11 to a V3 or 4 boulder problem is accurate; puts it at around .12b in my book.

But wait...all but the first quickdraw were hung and I saw someone fall off of it so that would make it more of a "First go, pinkpoint, knew where the crux was but not what it was, flash" than a pure onsight. Dec 19, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] There isn't a hard move on this thing, but it's still a tough redpoint since the smallest holds come at the very top. I give it 12c. Oct 26, 2009
Kalvin
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Regardless of whether it's a 12c or 12d, The Gift is a very fun and worthwhile classic to get on. Relatively easy moves, maybe high 11 or low 12, up until the top boulder problem when you're already pumped.

Took me a long time to finally send this one, so imo 12d is fair.

Note: There used to be perma-draws, but most of the ones on the Gallery have been removed. Though chances are you'll see someone's project draws on this route. Feb 5, 2019