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Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Buckingham, Sabrina King, 25 Dec 2011 (?)
Page Views: 2,456 total, 34/month
Shared By: krbuckingham on Dec 30, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb starts at the bottom of the obvious right leaning crack to the left of Sport Climbing is Neither. Pitch one is approx. 100 feet. Belay to the far left on a platform. Protect the horizontal crack with hand-sized gear. Pitch two starts right along the face, then up and left up the obvious crack. Belay at the tripod pedestal rock using slings or cordalette. Bring slings to leave and rap rings or walk off down the gulley behind the climb to the right. Bring approach shoes! We did not rap off, so we don't know all the details.

Also, no idea if this is an actual first ascent... The name is obvious, so if it has been climbed, I bet it's called this already. If anyone knows of a previous FA party, let us know!

Location

Left of Sport Climbing is Neither.

Protection

Finger to hand size cams, standard nut rack.

Photos

Hyo Byun
  5.6 PG13
Hyo Byun  
  5.6 PG13
Climbed only the first pitch. Good pro placements seemed to be sparse and was mostly a shallow flaring crack. I thought there was some serious fall potential at times. At the top is flat and safe, I belayed from an anchor made w/ the single bolt and cams to the right (~2,3 camelots). I should have made larger extensions at the top placements to reduce drag since the belay is a good ways to the left.

We skipped the last pitch since it was pretty much a scramble. Scrambled down the gully on the right. Jan 29, 2017
Ben Townsend  
 
Fun climb, pretty easy after the first couple of moves. Gear placements are at a premium on the first pitch, so think twice before passing any up. We belayed fairly high on the ramp that forms the second pitch; one could easily link both pitches, but we were concerned about the rope running over loose blocks on the slab, directly over the Gallery climbs.

Someone has left a big bolt and link down at the base of the second pitch ramp, which made approximately as much sense as the underwear that was hung on a bush next to it.

We descended via ramps and slots to the west, then cut over east on ledgy slabs to the base. Nov 19, 2015
JohnniMo McMullin
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
JohnniMo McMullin   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.6
When we climbed this we decided to build an anchor at the top of the ramp (bottom of the obvious crack on the left) on pitch 2, thereby dividing the climb into three pitches. I highly recommend this as it will save a ton of rope drag when you turn left into the crack. The crack will accept a wide range of cams at this point (maybe .5 to #3 or even a #4 camalots). Just remember to save some slings for the last anchor. Mar 12, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Doubt it, but I guarantee every trad climber thats ever been to the Gallery has thought about it (i know I have!)- nice job! Dec 31, 2011