Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 5,002 total, 38/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Jan 29, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


126 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route has sustained crimps throughout, and is slightly overhanging. A very fun start leads to a great pump as you keep climbing. Near the end you have the option of some more small crimps or a dynamic dead point. Either way you finish, this route is solid for the grade and a very enjoyable climb.

Location

Begin by starting at the small tree/bush and climbing out the right side of the pod in the middle of the wall. Continue up to the anchors through a series of crimps.

Protection

Several bolts to the chain anchors.
nickls
  5.11b/c
nickls  
  5.11b/c
A soft 11c, but an amazing climb. Apr 8, 2016
The third bolt and one of the anchor bolts are spinning Jan 2, 2016
Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
I don't find this route terribly enjoyable.

Awkward start leads to hard pulls on small holds on a slightly overhung wall. Not a good warm up imo, even if you're there to climb the stuff to the right

To each their own though Jul 5, 2015
Spooky top out! Feb 21, 2014
James Willis
Gilbert, Arizona
James Willis   Gilbert, Arizona
Check your ass between the second and third clips, I fell and hit the ledge behind the climb full force. I was fine, but now have a bruised ass. Jan 2, 2014
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11b
A true gem. Feb 12, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
On 1/29/11 the ASCA replaced the second pro bolt on this climb with a 1/2 x 2.75 SS 5-piece bolt.

On 12/5/13, the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with 1/2" x 4.5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with quicklinks for rappel. Jan 30, 2011
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.11c
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.11c
Found the route to be quite techy and sequency. I think I was able to skip that big hold way out right after the dish. Dont think its necessary and might even throw you off sequence. Dec 9, 2010
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
5.11b
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
5.11b
i'm 5'9 and found no issues with this route. there is definitely no need to dyno. I enjoyed the movement, especially the start. just smear right and use that pinch feature for balance as you reach up out of the dish to the start of the juggies. Mar 26, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
well, the guy in the photos is vertically challenged- under 5'6", if i recall (just how short are you, art?)....

i remember that route being annoying at the start, but once you got past the 2nd bolt, it wasnt too bad. dont recall it being overly reachy, though. Nov 12, 2008