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Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 16,015 total, 78/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jan 1, 2001
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.

Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.

Protection

6 bolts
phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
^^^^ This is good advice. Oct 23, 2017
Johnny Ink
Portland
Johnny Ink   Portland
Stellar climb. I was spit off right before the anchors on my on sight attempt. Dont think it's over when you're up there! Nov 18, 2016
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Josh LaMar   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
This is a great route to use good technique! Not your typical sport climb. Mar 20, 2015
Climber Ryan
Auburn, CA
 
Climber Ryan   Auburn, CA
 
Last climb of the day for me. Tough start and progressively gets easier. It has big jugs the whole way. Dec 3, 2012
Ben May
Escondido, CA
  5.11b
Ben May   Escondido, CA
  5.11b
Super Fun! wish it was longer!! Agreed that it should be like an easier 11. The top isn't a gimmee. Oct 30, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
On 1/29/11 the ASCA replaced all 6 protection bolts on this route with 1/2 x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and replaced the anchors with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped them with mussy hooks. Jan 30, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.11b
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.11b
5.11a/b Feb 5, 2010
Great bouldery start to jugs, side pulls, a crimp or two, and couple of hand jams topped off with a serious forearm pump. Handren's new guide book gives it 11c and I'd say it's all that and more. Jan 11, 2010
ridiculously fun! Nov 30, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
5.11b/c
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
5.11b/c
i nearly onsighted this...got pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that. Mar 26, 2009
Ben Lepesant
  5.11b/c
Ben Lepesant  
  5.11b/c
nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds! Feb 27, 2009
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Delightfully fun route. No single move is particularly hard; the challenge is dealing with the pump. Apr 13, 2007
426
426  
Yes, classic. I remember this one because right after I onsighted, Bachar soloed "The Gift"...I got two rushes for the price of one. Mar 19, 2007
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
best route at the gallery Feb 12, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c
really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.

that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....

have fun! Nov 12, 2006
chad wolak  
 
fun climbing Aug 1, 2006
Josh Beck
  5.11b
Josh Beck  
  5.11b
More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel... Nov 2, 2004
10b4me  
Grades schmades. I put my hand in ze crack it feels good. Yes!!! Aug 15, 2004
Randy
  5.11b/c
Randy  
  5.11b/c
Definitely not 11d. A good warm up route for the Gift. Feb 24, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though. Feb 24, 2004