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Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitz, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bill Boyle, 1989
Page Views: 17,658 total · 82/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jan 1, 2001
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

341 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This along with the Gift probably constitute the two most classic sport routes at the Gallery. This one is exceedingly popular, so best to be patient if you plan on giving this one multiple tries.

Fun pumpy climbing follows the crack system, though no actual crack climbing is required. As with the other routes at the Gallery, this one is probably a bit soft compared to similarly graded climbs at, say, Rifle. Classic and awesome climbing, nonetheless.


6 bolts
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
A little over a decade ago, in a time when 5.11d was not an on-sight for me or my 5.10-climbing partner, we both got on this climb, and both did it. The grade we agreed upon was lower 5.11. Nice route though. Feb 24, 2004
Definitely not 11d. A good warm up route for the Gift. Feb 24, 2004
Grades schmades. I put my hand in ze crack it feels good. Yes!!! Aug 15, 2004
Josh Beck
Josh Beck  
More fun than I was expecting and a lot easier as well. Technically I guess it finishes at the anchors to the right of the crack as the anchors to the left are for Minstrel... Nov 2, 2004
chad wolak  
fun climbing Aug 1, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
really fun climb- i'm not an .11 leader on a regular basis and i managed to flash this route- so i'd agree it's not .11+, despite having nothing to compare it to.

that said, it seems like if you can milk the hand jam rest halfway up, it's definitely easier. i watched some folks who avoided it whip higher up from the pump....

have fun! Nov 12, 2006
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
best route at the gallery Feb 12, 2007
Yes, classic. I remember this one because right after I onsighted, Bachar soloed "The Gift"...I got two rushes for the price of one. Mar 19, 2007
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
Delightfully fun route. No single move is particularly hard; the challenge is dealing with the pump. Apr 13, 2007
Ben Lepesant
Innsbruck, AT
Ben Lepesant   Innsbruck, AT
nowhere near 11d...
very good climbing, steep and great holds! Feb 27, 2009
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
i nearly onsighted pumped going to the chains. but none-the-less, it would've been my hardest onsight by far. I'd agree with everyone and say it was more like a super sustained 11b with maybe one C move in there somewhere. But it's hard to tell with overhang like that. Mar 26, 2009
ridiculously fun! Nov 30, 2009
Great bouldery start to jugs, side pulls, a crimp or two, and couple of hand jams topped off with a serious forearm pump. Handren's new guide book gives it 11c and I'd say it's all that and more. Jan 11, 2010
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
5.11a/b Feb 5, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 1/29/11 the ASCA replaced all 6 protection bolts on this route with 1/2 x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and replaced the anchors with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts, and equipped them with mussy hooks. Jan 30, 2011
Ben May
San Diego, CA
Ben May   San Diego, CA
Super Fun! wish it was longer!! Agreed that it should be like an easier 11. The top isn't a gimmee. Oct 30, 2012
Climber Ryan
Auburn, CA
Climber Ryan   Auburn, CA
Last climb of the day for me. Tough start and progressively gets easier. It has big jugs the whole way. Dec 3, 2012
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
Josh LaMar   Boulder, CO
This is a great route to use good technique! Not your typical sport climb. Mar 20, 2015
Johnny Ink
Johnny Ink   Portland
Stellar climb. I was spit off right before the anchors on my on sight attempt. Dont think it's over when you're up there! Nov 18, 2016
phylp   Upland
This is good advice (Jonny Ink's). Oct 23, 2017

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