Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mike Tupper, 1990
Page Views: 6,681 total, 52/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on Jun 9, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


50 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Starts between A Day in the Life and Yaak Crack, next to a small tree. A bouldery start leads to a very thin and very sustained overhung face. The holds get bigger and the wall steeper as you go. 5.12a if you start off the shelf behind.

Protection

Bolts to Chain Anchors.
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Fingery, difficulty is sustained, save some juice for the last 20'. Great route! Feb 2, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b/c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b/c
fantastic route, definitely harder than the Prophet and Tour De Pump. stays with you the whole way, but if you can make it to the one big jug on the route and get some back, you can probably clip the chains.

This route lost a key hold in recent years- ticking up the difficulty of the route off the ledge to .12b. Add the tough start of equal difficulty, and this route stays with you the whole way. I'd say this is .12b/c if you're tall, if you're short, it's solid .12c as you cannot avoid the heinous crimps passing the second bolt. Nov 18, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b/c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.12b/c
On 1/27/11, the ASCA replaced the first pro bolt on this route with a 1/2 x 2.75" SS 5-piece.

On 1/29/11, the ASCA replaced the second to last pro bolt on this route with a 1/2 x 3.75" 5-piece bolt. The anchors were also replaced with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped with mussy hooks. Jan 27, 2011