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Routes in The Gallery

A Day in the Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bouldering is Training V3-4 6A+
Buck's Muscle World S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gelatin Pooch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Glitch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Gridlock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gridlock Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Minstrel in the Gallery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nothing Shocking S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pump First, Pay Later S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Range of Motion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Running Amuck S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sissy Traverse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Social Disorder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport Climbing is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
That Goode Dude Climb S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad Climbing is Both T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Where the Down Boys Go S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Yaak Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,787 total, 21/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 23, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Between Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct, start from the ground and mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt, head right on jugs to a long move in order to clip the 3rd bolt climb straight up to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts shared anchor with Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct

Photos

Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I'm 5'8" with a t-rex index of +3. I could not clip the 3rd off the crimps at all. Was a very tough reach left from the jugs to clip it. As Ryan said the fall above the second bolt when bumping out right is bad, my partner took a brake strand to the groin.
We actually stick clipped the 3rd bolt from across the way on the boulder, this was pretty damn sketchy too.

I might have just been tired on the 4th day straight climbing but the move around the 3rd bolt felt about V4ish to me. Makes me wonder if the route has lost a crimp over the years? Mar 27, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Its a good idea to clip the 3rd bolt off the crimps to avoid the scary fall- which is safe if you have the bolt clipped. Dec 3, 2012
Climber Ryan
Auburn, CA
 
Climber Ryan   Auburn, CA
 
The description for the 11a (left start) is miss leading. First clip is a little sketchy if you less than 6 foot. There are finger busting crimps for the first two bolts. Then you are at a lovely jug way right of the third bolt that is a parilous reach back to the left. Once the third bolt is clipped the climb is mellow. First three bolts are way harder than Yaak Crack. Not a good fall at nearing the third bolt. I know I made it twice. Dec 3, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
On 12/7/10, the ASCA replaced the last bolt on this route along with the shared anchor. All bolts are 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece. The anchor is equipped with quicklinks and rap rings. Dec 7, 2010