Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,246 total · 23/month
Shared By: Art Morimitsu on Feb 23, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Between Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct, start from the ground and mantle up onto the ledge to clip the first bolt, head right on jugs to a long move in order to clip the 3rd bolt climb straight up to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts shared anchor with Running Amuck and Gridlock Direct

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
On 12/7/10, the ASCA replaced the last bolt on this route along with the shared anchor. All bolts are 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece. The anchor is equipped with quicklinks and rap rings. Dec 7, 2010
Climber Ryan
Auburn, CA
 
Climber Ryan   Auburn, CA
 
The description for the 11a (left start) is miss leading. First clip is a little sketchy if you less than 6 foot. There are finger busting crimps for the first two bolts. Then you are at a lovely jug way right of the third bolt that is a parilous reach back to the left. Once the third bolt is clipped the climb is mellow. First three bolts are way harder than Yaak Crack. Not a good fall at nearing the third bolt. I know I made it twice. Dec 3, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
Its a good idea to clip the 3rd bolt off the crimps to avoid the scary fall- which is safe if you have the bolt clipped. Dec 3, 2012
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I'm 5'8" with a t-rex index of +3. I could not clip the 3rd off the crimps at all. Was a very tough reach left from the jugs to clip it. As Ryan said the fall above the second bolt when bumping out right is bad, my partner took a brake strand to the groin.
We actually stick clipped the 3rd bolt from across the way on the boulder, this was pretty damn sketchy too.

I might have just been tired on the 4th day straight climbing but the move around the 3rd bolt felt about V4ish to me. Makes me wonder if the route has lost a crimp over the years? Mar 27, 2017