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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goodman's Cracker T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett & Debbie Daigle, March 1988
Page Views: 1,201 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the thin Wall's E. Side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as the left-most route of the right half of the wall, just right of the large right-facing corner at the 1/2 way point. Climb a crack system upward just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then go up and right as necessary to stay in good rock and good holds.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.8, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt farer at 5.7.

Protection

A standard light rack- nuts and cams.

Photos

Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Maybe I'm just getting old but "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded?" Sorry, Tony, don't mean to be a pain. I thought the routes on thin wall were all properly graded and I was very happy that I led Butterfingers and not this one! But this is a sweet line with some nice, thin holds and the stem/traverse move to exit is awsesome! Apr 30, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I would second Tony's assertion that "everything at Thin Wall is overgraded". May 1, 2007
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Overrated probably applies more than overgraded.

New Vogel book shows it finishing more straight up on the right hand side of the three-block-split. Our leader did a little beached whale move finishing it. Oct 31, 2011
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.8
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.8
Good confidence builder for Jtree Trad. Jan 24, 2013
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
Daniel Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
It's a one move wonder. The move in the beginning is 5.8 to gain the small ledge. If you go right and by-pass this move for easier climbing then yes this climb is no more than 5.7. Oct 26, 2013
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Did the roof exit this time (on lead). Great jams! Nov 24, 2013

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