Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Ned Crossley, March 1986
Page Views: 4,832 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


232 Opinions

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Description

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's East Side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as the right-most route of the left half of the wall, just left of the large right-facing corner at the 1/2 way point. The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is over-graded and this felt fairer at 5.8.

Protection

A standard light rack- nuts and cams.

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
"Count on your fingers" (rated 5.9 I think). Fun, easy, bolted up top so easy to top rope. Good climb to teach on in the summer months as it is in the shade from 3-4pm on. Easy walk up from left side if facing the wall from the east. Positive foot and handholds. Jul 22, 2003
Back to back 5.8/9 moves to finish the slight bulge at the top. Probably not quite 5.9. Nice route, plenty of pro opportunities if you want to sew it up. Rap anchors directly up top. Mar 7, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.9
Bo Johnston  
  5.9
Bring your stoppers. Fun route with a crux towards the top. Oct 10, 2005
Kellen Holt
  5.9
Kellen Holt  
  5.9
Excellent Climb! Probably won't reach classic status, but a hidden gem IMHO. Good gear and climbing, and a provoking crux bulge at the end. Gear was excellent, with many excellent nuts. Get this one wired and then do No Calculators. Dec 31, 2005
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A good climb! Sep 22, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Upper crux takes a nice 1.5" cam. Nice route and worth doing. Feb 23, 2007
transattic
Los Angeles, CA
 
transattic   Los Angeles, CA
 
You can also climb a 5.8+ version of this route starting from the right of the arete and slowly making your way back to the main route for top rope.

There are 2 bolts on the top-out, which also allows quick setup for top rope. Mar 21, 2011
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9-
I thought the protection was far more challenging than the moves. And the hordes of top-ropers and their screaming kids while leading this.... Jan 2, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
The fact that the Thin Wall was (and always is) mobbed with people really detracts from what is otherwise a good climb. Steep, with a definite crux up high. Nov 22, 2012
I think this is one of the funnest routes on Thin Wall, definitely gotta trust those fingers especially up high where it gets delicate. Mar 14, 2015