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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Goodman's Cracker T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Swain & Ned Crossley, March 1986
Page Views: 4,738 total · 26/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's East Side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as the right-most route of the left half of the wall, just left of the large right-facing corner at the 1/2 way point. The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is over-graded and this felt fairer at 5.8.


A standard light rack- nuts and cams.


Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
"Count on your fingers" (rated 5.9 I think). Fun, easy, bolted up top so easy to top rope. Good climb to teach on in the summer months as it is in the shade from 3-4pm on. Easy walk up from left side if facing the wall from the east. Positive foot and handholds. Jul 22, 2003
Back to back 5.8/9 moves to finish the slight bulge at the top. Probably not quite 5.9. Nice route, plenty of pro opportunities if you want to sew it up. Rap anchors directly up top. Mar 7, 2005
Bo Johnston
Bo Johnston  
Bring your stoppers. Fun route with a crux towards the top. Oct 10, 2005
Kellen Holt
Kellen Holt  
Excellent Climb! Probably won't reach classic status, but a hidden gem IMHO. Good gear and climbing, and a provoking crux bulge at the end. Gear was excellent, with many excellent nuts. Get this one wired and then do No Calculators. Dec 31, 2005
A good climb! Sep 22, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Upper crux takes a nice 1.5" cam. Nice route and worth doing. Feb 23, 2007
Los Angeles, CA
transattic   Los Angeles, CA
You can also climb a 5.8+ version of this route starting from the right of the arete and slowly making your way back to the main route for top rope.

There are 2 bolts on the top-out, which also allows quick setup for top rope. Mar 21, 2011
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
I thought the protection was far more challenging than the moves. And the hordes of top-ropers and their screaming kids while leading this.... Jan 2, 2012
The fact that the Thin Wall was (and always is) mobbed with people really detracts from what is otherwise a good climb. Steep, with a definite crux up high. Nov 22, 2012
I think this is one of the funnest routes on Thin Wall, definitely gotta trust those fingers especially up high where it gets delicate. Mar 14, 2015

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