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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88
Page Views: 3,293 total, 18/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.

The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6

Protection

Stoppers, maybe tricams or small cams in the horizontal near the start.
Brian morin
Simi Valley, CA
 
Brian morin   Simi Valley, CA
 
A rare soft jtree route. Felt 5.6. Double Cross 5.7+ was significantly harder. Crux is the starting move. Albeit short, great for new leaders due to great stances to place gear.

Warning, beta spray on pro: First piece (a gray .4 cam) fits nicely at the start of the vertical crack if you can reach it. Rest of way placed two .3's and two .75's.

If only I could find other climbs like this that are vertical with great features BUT LONGER May 3, 2017
Zachary Wilson
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Zachary Wilson   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Absolutely forgettable climbing. Head over to White Lightning instead. Nov 25, 2011
easy route, even for a one-handed climber. it is also incredibly easy to set a top rope. you dont need anything but webbing. there is a giant piece of rock sticking up that you can use. i put 2-3 pieces of webbing around it and that's bomber on its own. Sep 29, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Can't say that I agree with this being a one move wonder - this route had me thinking about my placements all the way up. Not difficult but I think a little more sustained than 5.6. Either way, great climb, fun lead! Apr 30, 2007
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
The route might seem to end at the extreme left of a large ledge. Keep going! One can milk out a few more moves by climbing the face and/or outside corner of the boulder-like rock to the left. Apr 25, 2007