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Butterfingers Make Me Horny
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.1 from 335
votes
Routes in The Thin Wall
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Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Count Your Blessings T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Felicitations T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keith's Work TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sandbag T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01437, -116.17276 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, 5/88 |
| Page Views: | 6,221 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Nov 1, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climbs the first easy looking crack right of the roofy area under a notch in the top of the formation. The first 10 feet are the crux - be careful mantling to get to the first gear placement. After pulling past the crux move on a good fingerlock, easy fun 5.6 jug hauling with bomber stoppers leads to a good ledge where a natural gear belay can be set. Scramble up and left to chains to rap or scramble off. This ledge can be reached with some exposure to set a TR, but this is an excellent beginners lead requiring only a set of stoppers.
The Vogel guidebook calls this 5.9 but it is a one move wonder, and that move didn't feel any harder than 5.8 Mostly fun 5.6
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Brian morin
A rare soft jtree route. Felt 5.6. Double Cross 5.7+ was significantly harder…
May 3, 2017
6 Comments