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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

The East Face of The Thin Wall is a top-roper's dream come true. There is something for everyone here - from 5.6 to 5.11a. There are a handful of bolts up top (Congratulations and Count On Your Fingers / No Calculators Allowed), and where there aren't bolts, gear is required. If toproping, a short static rope or some long webbing is especially helpful.

The downside of Thin Wall is that on any given day, there are about a million people here which creates a bit of a circus-like atmosphere. Thin Wall is popular with the Boy Scouts, church groups, and every other institutional group you could imagine.

The difficulty of the routes tends to generally increase as one moves left along the face.

Nearly all of the routes can be led safely, except for Child's Play (5.10d) and Congratulations (5.11a) - the two leftmost routes. Although it doesn't receive an "R" rating in Vogel's guide, I have personally stayed away from leading The Face of Tammy Faye (5.8), as pro looks sparse.

Descent: scramble to the north or south (4th class), or rap off fixed anchors for No Calculators Allowed

Getting There

From Real Hidden Valley parking area, follow nature trail north to "T" intersection. Head left (NW) on trail. The Thin Wall is the prominent rock "fin" on your right.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Thin Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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tomallen112190
yucca valley, ca
tomallen112190   yucca valley, ca
To whom it may concern: I took some friends to thin wall the other day and noticed the bolted anchor up top is getting pretty loose. I don't feel qualified to adjust bolts or replace them, but I feel it's worth mentioning to anybody who can fix it. May 10, 2016
MoeSARcase
Cashmere WA
MoeSARcase   Cashmere WA
So I've made many pilgrimages to the climbing Mecca of JTree. Yes I'm a guide book snob. So most of the references to this area talk about the hordes of people. There are no starred routes in the most popular guide to the area. Don't let that keep you away. There are many moderate lines from 5.6 to 5.10. This wall is in the shade most of the day, yet 20 ft. From the base you and your friends basque in the sun and watch the show. We had for lines set up for TR and had fabulous day on half a dozen routes. Mar 18, 2013
Lynn Hill climbing the Thin Wall

youtube.com/watch?v=qWfa6IZ… Feb 18, 2012
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
Just a comment on how the area has changed over the past few years. This area used to be a ghost town since it was primarily a top roping crag and I guess must have lacked a certain cache. I mean you could have shot a cannon at its base and only graze a few plants. Gladly, it's nice to see that its popularity hasn't resulted in a proliferation of bolts. Jan 5, 2009
Randy  
Don't confuse the terms "most popular" with "most crowded." There are plenty people who avoid the area like the plague. Aug 1, 2003
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Is this officially the most popular formation in Joshua Tree? (based on average # of visitors a day compared to # of climbs) Jul 31, 2003
re: crux at top. That's so typical of Josh. the crack gets wide at the top and a little groveling is involved. It's not just the Thin Wall. Done many a route here and cruse'd the crux only to feel like a beached fish at the top. Jul 18, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
On the thin wall the "Crux" is mostly up top. So unless you go up and over don't be so sure you've totally done the route. Jul 15, 2003
Agreed, the ratings on the Thin Wall feel quite soft to me. Apr 8, 2003
I agree with Tony. I thought that the route ratings were more in line with other crags in the country. in other words, I thought these routes were overrated for Josh. Apr 8, 2003
The West face has a route called "Sandbag" that is a very technical lead. One should be a solid 10c leader. Remember to double back your harness. The one time I forgot to was when I led this route. Thank God I didn't fall! Jan 24, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Maybe I was more dialed in at this crag then I was at others, but in my honest opinion, the ratings at this crag were more merciful. I found 5.10+/11- to be at the limit of my ability at most J-tree crags, but not so hard here. Jul 2, 2002

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