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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Alan Roberts & Kristin Laird, 12/87
Page Views: 2,790 total · 16/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the thin Wall's E. Side and orient according to the photo. This climb is the third major crack system from the right end of the wall. Climb a singular crack system using upward toward the top, reaching the left side of a dome like formation nea the top.Good climbing, singular line.

Protection

I did not lead this route, but it appeared to be doable with a light standard rack. It is also a good solo *8_).

Photos

transattic
Los Angeles, CA
 
transattic   Los Angeles, CA
 
Fun to trad. If you want to avoid getting your rope stuck (or high drag) in the lower crack, you can either 1) attach 2-4' runners to pro or 2) skip pro until the first top-out, but that's if you don't mind taking a 20-foot risk.

Continue rest of climb with pro, while keeping the rope out of the lower crack.

For anchor, use 3 cams and 1 chock. Avoid the loose flat stone wedged between the left and middle rocks. Mar 21, 2011
this route loves stoppers May 12, 2010
Grace C
Claremont, CA
5.7
Grace C   Claremont, CA
5.7
This was my first 5.7 lead at J Tree and it served that purpose well. Very straightforwards, good rest spots, and great gear. Feb 22, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I agree no real crux but what a fun climb! Straightforward crack with plenty face holds. Ran it out on two pieces just for the mental security. ;-) Now I understand why I've seen some guides run up this with no pro, to set their top-ropes. Apr 30, 2007
Kanyu
  5.7
Kanyu  
  5.7
Good pro, no crux, straight forward for beginning leaders. Set your own anchor on top. Walk off to the right (facing the route) with short secure down climb sections.

The route is in shade in the PM. Apr 9, 2007

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