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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown 1979, FL: Jonny Woodward
Page Views: 2,227 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 23, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Approach Thin Wall's east side. Toward the left (south) end of the east side, near the wall's highest point, you will see a broad 3-foot roof with two tiers split by a crack. The right side of this roof is higher than the left. Congratulations climbs a system of small and insecure face holds and a seam to reach the crack at the roof, then charges through the roof on better holds. Turning the roof and establishing yourself above it is the fun and gymnastic crux.

Beta Hint- I actually got my foot stuck so badly over my head there that it was difficult to remove once past the crux sequence.

The route is rated 5.11a in the Vogel guide, but I felt that the route was more on par with the smattering of 5.10c routes I did than with the other 5.11a routes. Like most of the lines at Thin Wall, this one can be TR'd by setting an anchor from above. Odds are that one will be already there when you arrive if it is a weekend. I have only bummed a TR on this, and have not led it.

Protection

Figuring out what sparse protection might fit should not be a terrible task to undertake. The crux in and of itself, at the roof, can be protected by cams.
Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these. Jul 8, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.11a R
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a R
Nice thin face down low to cruxy roof moves higher up. A bit harder (and more technical) than Child's Play. May 4, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d
Valhalla and Iron Cross were easier? Well so is Swept Away and one of those Banana Cracks. Such a Savage is easier too. Jun 9, 2004
I've done easier 11A's: Iron Cross, Valhalla. So I have to hang with 11A. May 1, 2004