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Routes in The Thin Wall

Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Almost Vertical T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butterfingers Make Me Horny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Chocolate is Better Than Sex T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Congratulations T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Conservative Policies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Count Your Blessings TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Count on Your Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face of Tammy Faye, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hidden in Plain Sight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Calculators Allowed T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peculiar Taste Buds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Root T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Cyndie Bransford, May 1988
Page Views: 1,691 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is shown clearly in the attached Photo. To reach it, approach the Thin Wall's east side and orient according to the photo. This would best be described as starting in a "double crack" in the center of the right half of the wall. Climb the double crack system upward to a merge 1/3 of just to the beginning of a bulge up top, then continue up on the single crack. The jams are good, although the rock is a little poor.The route is traditionally rated (Vogel guide) as 5.9+, but it seems that everything at Thin Wall is overgraded and this felt fair at 5.8.

Protection

Cams and Tricams. The crack system here is flaring and rounded and has plenty of shedding crystals. Set pro carefully. This is not 'S' for an experienced leader, but is not a good lead for a beginner.

Photos

John Pan
Los Angeles, California
John Pan   Los Angeles, California
4/9/2014

A friend broke a large chunk of rock off the route from a mock lead fall onto a Cam. See added photo for description/beta. Mar 12, 2014
I would also agree that this climb is not an 'R' nor a 5.9+. 5.8/5.8- is probably a fair assessment. However, the line I took was primarily to the right of the one in the beta photo. Apr 17, 2011
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
  5.8-
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
  5.8-
R? What the heck?! Probably the easiest 9 in the park I've ever done. When you think about Pope's Crack or Touch and Go, this is a 5.8- or easier. No pro for the start for maybe 3 moves but this climb is not the least bit run-out. Oct 18, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.8
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.8
An "R" rating? Seriously? Jun 11, 2008
This route has a tricky start for a newer leader. The moves are difficult to read and the whole climb feels a little strange. May 20, 2007