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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 1992
Page Views: 3,497 total · 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.

Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.

Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.


10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap


Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars. Dec 14, 2003
Enlightenment was not obtained. Fantastic and sustained climbing to the roof on impeccable grey rock.

The rappel off the anchor is nearly 100 foot. A single 60 meter suffices. Feb 14, 2010
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress! Feb 10, 2014

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