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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Roy McClenahan and Jeff Sewell, February 1980
Page Views: 7,249 total, 37/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the straight crack just right of Taken for Granite. Same start: a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block.From here, go straight up in a finger and hand crack.

2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.

Protection

thin to 2.5"
I have no memory of it, but Roy McLenahan's notes and drawn maps from that era show he and I did the FA 2/80. Makes sense since we did a bunch of other FA's up there during that same time.. .yet neither of us remember climbing it. I still say it's an FA unknown.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…,, May 9, 2016
Phil Esra  
 
Not quite as good as Taken for Granite, but while you're there, might as well--it's still one of the better 5.8s in the park. Deposits you in the gully below the monster yucca, so downclimbing is easy.

This climb is more sustained at 5.7ish than Taken for Granite (though the low crux is shared). If you're a 5.8- leader, try Taken for Granite first. Jan 2, 2014
UpRope  
Great route on superb rock but only unless you want to spend half the day in a hike/thrash-fest through stinging ant and sticker-bush infested boulder jungle. Mar 30, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
Not as good as Taken for Granite. If you have to choose to lead one or the other, choose Taken for Granite. Nov 27, 2010
Bryan Davenport
29palms
 
Bryan Davenport   29palms
 
We stuck to the thin crack for some added finger/toe jams. Sustained and fun. The Down climb is pretty well blocked by a yucca. No problem for this climb, since it ends just short of the yucca, but the other climbs are a bit more challenging to down climb. Any tips for this tree? Mar 21, 2010
Darren D.
  5.8
Darren D.  
  5.8
This route along with the 5.8 to the left are really nice moderate routes. Clean rock up in a high position in a nice canyon. Easy scramble off to climbers right. Don't stir up the ants at the start. Mar 28, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.8
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.8
From the finishing ledge, I was able to run it out on moderate face to the sling wad at the top of Taken For Granite. This makes for a 140 foot pitch and avoids the descent gully.

I think Jeff Sewell is referring to Cactus Cooler 5.10b, which starts out great then gets a bit nebulous. Feb 11, 2007
Just a bit of trivia, but the original 200 Motels is the arching 40' right facing layback crack just below Rattlesnake Buttress. I don't know what that thing is called in the guide these days (is it even in the guide?), but I belayed Roy McClenahan on it / spring '79. Nice rock quality, cool moves; 10a-ish.

Edit- i read what Outdoor Eric wrote below- --route I thought we originally named 200 Motels was in fact Cactus Cooler. Jan 5, 2004
Awesome climbing, including face, OW, chimney, to a spectacular ~100 foot hand/finger crack (the right of the two cracks). This thing eats up nuts and hexes, and a large cam (4.5 Camalot) will protect the move into the wide crack and chimney. The technical crux comes quickly. Above the climbing is sweet and easy! You will want to climb it again, but don't have to because "Taken for Granite" is 10 feet away and even better! Descent: A chossy, veg-filled gully on climber's right leads back to the base. Jan 4, 2004
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
No trip to Indian Cove is complete without hiking beautiful Rattlesnake Canyon and roping up for "200 Motels." The route is incredible--smooth, Sierra-like granite betrays this route's location, and the finger locks are outrageously good! Is 5.8 allowed to be this fun?! Don't miss it. It,s among the coolest moderate pitches in the park.

MatthewVentura, CA Oct 5, 2002