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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone & Dave Bruckman, January 1979
Page Views: 10,015 total · 49/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.

2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.

Protection

thin to 2.5"

Photos

David Evans
  5.8-
David Evans  
  5.8-
Hey Jeff Sewell and Dave Bruckman, where are you guys these days? E-mail me!DE Nov 6, 2003
C Miller   CA  
Jeff is in Georgia now -

rockclimbing.com/users/list…

and I saw Boogleman at Williamson about a month ago. Where did you go Dave? Nov 6, 2003
Start is the same as for 200 Motels. More outstanding crack climbing, only better! Negotiate the chimney, but enter the left-hand crack. Jam to the top of the crack, then ~15 feet of easy (low 5th) face moves lead to rap slings. At the time of our ascent, we replace an old sling with some 1" tubular and added an additional rap ring. A double-rope rappel right down the clean face below gets you back to your gear. Retrace your steps back to the car... Jan 4, 2004
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.8
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.8
This would be a four-star route if the route ended at the logical ending, not at the ugly sling wad at the top of the formation. We were thinking there should be bolts at the top of the crack, making for a perfect 35-meter pitch. As it is now, one must run it out to the top and try to find weathered slings while dragging along a second rope.

The pitch length in this database is a bit short. It is more like a 140 foot pitch. My 70 meter rope runs a bit long and I was just able to rap angling east and land at the start of Eureka, then do a bit of downclimbing to get to the start. I can usually rap 130 feet no problem with that rope. Feb 11, 2007
Darren D.
  5.8
Darren D.  
  5.8
The sling-wad at the top is a bit of an eye-sore and I would have cut them all out if I had brought a knife. The down climb involves scrambling down a chimney off the back side, then head climbers right through a yucca. A really nice climb with good rock. Mar 28, 2007
The "logical ending" is the top.

It's an easy and short scramble off to the right.

No need for any convenience anchors. Jun 19, 2008
Bryan Davenport
29palms
  5.8-
Bryan Davenport   29palms
  5.8-
One of the best cracks I've climbed yet! Sustained and fun. We TR'ed after climbing the gully The approach took quite a bit more than 20-30 minutes though. With kids in tow, it took almost two hours. Without, I would give it a good hour + to get to the climb. That 'Yucca' is a pretty considerable obstacle in the gully now; any tips? Mar 21, 2010
Bryan
If you do some down climbing behind the formation to the climbers left there are some rap slings that get you back to the ledge the climb starts on with a 60 meter rope.just barely. Apr 4, 2010
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
This route and 200 Motels start with the same 40' of climbing. We climbed Taken for Granite and then rapped with a single 60m rope to the boulder at the top of the chimney (good belay). This allowed us to climb the independent portion of 200 Motels without reclimbing the shared start. Nov 27, 2010
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.8
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.8
This route and 200 Motels are good routes, not great and probably not worth the hike. No need to bring 2 ropes. A short down-climb off the back takes you to a slung boulder and a single 60 just barely gets you back to the base. Dec 9, 2012
Tradiban
  5.7
Tradiban  
  5.7
Pretty easy for 5.8, yea cut the tat. I traversed (exposed) around to the anchors for Eureka for the rap. Dec 28, 2012
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the very large detached flake midway up. I tried to avoid it, but it is in the middle of everything and must be trusted. I found that it greatly detracted from the quality of this otherwise stellar climb. BTW: I began with the chimney start on the left and really enjoyed it. Nov 16, 2013
Phil Esra  
 
Excellent for the grade. Worth the hike? Depends on how you feel about hiking. It takes a long time (30 minutes? ha!), and involves plenty of scrambling and route finding.

An exposed traverse gets you to the bolts at the top of Eureka, and a 70m rope gets you down (not sure about a 60). Doing the down-climb around the yucca is a little dicey--probably not recommended for a 5.8 leader. (But there's a great rail to climber's right if you're up for it.) Jan 2, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
near the top, traversed left onto the last big shoulder slope before the top, placed a high piece to protect the second, then down easy terrain to the visible bolted rap anchor of Eureka

rapped with one 70m rope, with about 20 ft on each strand to spare, so looks like a 60m would work too Oct 20, 2014
From the Eureka anchor it's a 95-foot (<30 meters) rappel to the deck. Oct 21, 2014
Stormeh
  5.8-
Stormeh  
  5.8-
I agree with DJ above. The flake 40' up the route is in the middle of everything, is precariously perched with no obvious solid attachment, and had me quite worried when climbing up it.

Apart from the flake, it's a great route. I thought the crux is right off the ground, along with when the crack thins out 2/3 of the way up.

I was also confused by the location of the tat nest up top to rap off of. It is slung around a thin pinch between two boulders, instead one of the boulders themselves. If I had brought webbing I would have changed this. Feb 2, 2015
Fernando Cal
CA, UT
  5.8-
Fernando Cal   CA, UT
  5.8-
If you like approaches these routes are great. No crowds, good moderates, and the approach will warm you up. The shared section of all climbs seemed to me to be the only 5.8 sections. The rest were a bit easier as it levels off. Good pro.

LARGE FLAKE BEFORE STARTING LEFT CURVED CRACK IS LOOSE! Climb with caution or ygd!!! Feb 6, 2017

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