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Taken for Granite
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 89
votes
Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress
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200 Motels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eureka! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Taken for Granite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 34.07734, -116.14081 |
| FA: | Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone & Dave Bruckman, January 1979 |
| Page Views: | 15,186 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | AJ on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.
If you haven't been here before, expect the approach to take roughly an hour. Go up Rattlesnake Wash further than you might initially think you need to. There are some cairns on the approach, but they are easy to miss and may only be found as you descend from the cliff!
Depending how good you are at snooping around, there are a few descent options. You can do a two-rope rap from ratty slings, a 60m+ rap from a boulder on the back of the cliff or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.
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