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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

A smooth gray face at the top of Rattlesnake Canyon. Taken for Granite (5.8-) and 200 Motels (5.8-) are visible from the car, both are super.

Getting There

Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon 20-30 minutes until the canyon turns right, directly below the crag. Continue in the wash a bit, then scramble back up and left to the right end of the crag, near Test Pilot. (There is a steep drop off just below the main buttress.)

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rattlesnake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 44
Taken for Granite
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
200 Motels
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Back Up Singers
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 5
Eureka!
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Taken for Granite
 44
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
200 Motels
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Back Up Singers
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Eureka!
 5
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
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A bit more approach beta: This buttress and its outstanding cracks are visible from many points in Indian Cove. It appears as a blank face with a set of two cracks, reminiscent of the "K cracks" of Pingora fame. The approach hike takes approximately 35-45 minutes from the Day Use Area and trailhead for Rattlesnake canyon. The approach is the crux of these climbs. Scramble up wash, past slickrock slabs, potholes, pools, and narrows to the main part of this wild, spectacular canyon. After some time walking through the wide sandy canyon above the slickrock and narrows below, arrive at a distinct, house-sized boulder (on your left) with a detached flake in front of it. At this point, leave the main canyon bearing left, up a faint gully, staying right of the buttress. At this point Rattlesnake Buttress will appear to be above and slightly to your left. Follow your nose through the boulders, keeping your eyes peeled for cairns.The approach is somewhat tedious, but your persistence will be rewarded. Careful cairn-following leads to the base of both Taken for Granite and 200 Motels. Jan 4, 2004
There are now cairns leading the way from the wash to the face. Brutal approach but beautiful climbing. Bring snacks! Mar 6, 2012
I've been on way worse approaches, for JT standards it is a bit much I guess, but still worth it. Dec 28, 2012
Vogel's green "Classics" guidebook has helpful pics of the approach. Allow plenty of time. As of 1-1-14, the final scramble is very well cairned except maybe for the first couple of boulders exiting the main wash. This exit happens maybe 10-20 yards before the wash jogs right. Good luck and have fun. Jan 2, 2014

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