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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Dana Adler, March 1996
Page Views: 1,454 total, 8/month
Shared By: David Evans on Apr 13, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Rattlesnake Buttress is known for it's two classic 5.8 cracks, 200 Motels and Taken for Granite. This is the (and until recently, overlooked) crack to the right. Same start as the other 2 but hand traverse right (foot traverse possible but not as fun) and head up cracks on the edge of the buttress. A great variation is the splitter seam leading up to the middle crack of the three (try not to stem to the right!).

Protection

Standard rack up to 3".

Photos

IMO this line is as good as 200 Motels. Dec 23, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
FA: Todd Gordon, Dan Adler 3-96 (unless someone else has an earlier ascent...)...... Nov 25, 2012
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
So definitely went to Rattlesnake Buttress with the intent on climbing the two classic lines. Knew both had the same start and one branched left and the other right. My girlfriend and her friend were climbing with me and had the guidebook in hand when we arrived. We had no information about the descent and worried about possibly needing two ropes for a Taken for Granite rappel. However, its seemed the obvious gully to the right of the formation offered a walk off for 200. I climbed up to be sure and found the perfect belay ledge at the top of 200. However, I thought I was standing on top of the far right line ( which I now know is Back-up singers) which I believed to be 200 motels and the ladies with guide in hand told me the same, and the middle crack was the lesser unknown one. So I took off and led the beautiful lesser travelled Back up singers and had an ultra blast. However where the route ends is not the best belay stance and I would suggest to everyone who does this route to do as I did and continue up the blunt arrete of the buttress which is very easy to climb and protect, and set-up the belay at the top of 200 motels. Said ledge offers a much safer descent into the gully as well. Jan 7, 2010
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
It's like Deja Vu all over again.

-Yogi Berra Feb 11, 2007