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Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Unknown (lower section), D, Hensel &T. Gordon, '89 (upper part)
Page Views: 79 total, 0/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 12, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This 160' pitch on the west end of Rattlesnake Buttress begins at the base of an intermittent black vertical dike. Steep face climbing on thin edges (crux past third bolt) leads to doubled bolts 40' up (lower section of route - possible belay / rappel). Continue on lower angle runout slab to the rappel anchor. A long route with some interesting moves but there are too many exfoliating flakes for this to be a 3 out of 5 star climb.

Protection

Quickdraws for eight bolts (1/4" and 3/8") to a two bolt (3/8") anchor. Two ropes are needed for one rappel to the ground (160').

Photos

Roy McClenahan lead the first 30' + and drilled the first 2 bolts (this woud have been Spring '79), but he felt bolt #2 was shitty bailed. Hence the name Roy's Route.. Dec 18, 2003