Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rattlesnake Buttress

200 Motels T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Approach Pitch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Back Up Singers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cactus Cooler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eureka! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Foxtail Fryer TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jojoba Heater T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pictures of Home T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roy's Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Taken for Granite T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Test Pilot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Sewell & Roy McClenahan 1979
Page Views: 437 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jan 7, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

To the left of the bolted dike "Roy's Route" .11b is this nice right-leaning, right-facing corner with a thin crack. Scramble through some scrub oak and nolinas to reach an uncomfortable vegetated belay at the base. Mind the prickly pear cactus, too.

Climb up the fun tips-to-fingers corner (crux), to easier and wandering terrain above. This route really shines as a JTree "adventure climb" - expect to find some loose blocks, cactus, yucca, and some easy runouts enroute to the top. Belay on a sloping slabby ledge with a horizontal crack.

Location

To the right of the main face containing "Taken for Granite" and "200 Motels". An obvious right facing corner down low.

To descend - see that 2" diameter scrub oak to your right with the slings? Well, you can risk rappelling off it, or just downclimb the 4th class corner back to the base like I did.

Protection

Cams/nuts from tips to 3". The larger gear is useful for the belay. Helmet for your belayer is a good idea too.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I tried to lead this route, but found it too difficult to stop and place gear on the go. The right wall offers very little for the feet and the liebacking is fairly sustained. On toprope the climbing is merely pleasantly pumper. Nov 16, 2013