PRINT: Rock Climb Eureka!, Joshua Tree National Park

Eureka!

5.12b, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),

Avg: 3.7 from 11 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, 1992
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Rattlesnake Buttress

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This takes the smooth face a bit to the left of 200 Motels/Taken for Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.

Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.

Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.

Protection

10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1992

Photo by John Heyges<br>
a) 200 Motels<br>
b) Eureka

Photo by John Heyges a) 200 Motels b) Eureka

Rappelling Eureka

Bobby P. on Eureka.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vernon Stiefel

5.12b

This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars. Dec 14, 2003

Randy
Lassitude 33

Enlightenment was not obtained. Fantastic and sustained climbing to the roof on impeccable grey rock.

The rappel off the anchor is nearly 100 foot. A single 60 meter suffices. Feb 14, 2010

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA

5.12a/b

This is one of the best Bob Gaines routes I have been on. Sustained and sequential edging and crimping through the bottom section. Really fun and imaginative moves at the crux. Very well bolted. Totally worth the hike out to the buttress! Feb 10, 2014

Thomas Claiborne
Flagstaff

Some absolutely bullet stone on this one. Tricky, sequential beta will get you up this one. The approach will keep the masses at bay but it's definitely worth the hike.

Thanks Bob for another great one. May 15, 2019

John Croker

My son (belayed by me) attempted this route Sunday 7/12 but bailed at bolt 6, we later abseiled down from anchors after doing Taken for Granite. I was interested to see the bolts are all mild steel with SS fixed hangers- the bolts have corroded over time (different metals / water / snow = galvanic corrosion); i do note from the J Tree NP bolting page the 'standard' is SS bolts and SS hangers (specific grade of SS not specified) and 3/8" minimum. I didn't measure these bolts but they looked a lot more like 1/4" so they are probably the originals of the route. this route likely needs a rebolt before it becomes unexpectedly hazardous. A rebolt may be on someone 's schedule - i don't know that (im a visiting climber from overseas- thought i should post at least something). Dec 13, 2025