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Routes in Mel's Diner
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Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bleu Plate Especial T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fusion Punk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kickin' Bach T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Other Voices T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pell Mel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0286, -116.1829 |
| FA: | (TR) Karl Mueller & Alan Nelson, 12/81, FL: Todd Swain and Peggy Buckey 03-1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,300 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Walk to the left around from the Mel Cracks and boulder hop to the bottom of the upper left tier. The climb is on the right-hand side, a flakey looking crack in a vertical seam that ends before the top, with another crack located up and to the right.
Steepness on spikes (small cam early please) with the odd jam leads to the end of the first crack and a good rest. Traverse right and climb the well featured crack to the mother of all jugs.
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