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Routes in Mel's Diner

Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bleu Plate Especial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kickin' Bach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pell Mel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd & Donette Swain, Terry English, Nancy Geismar, George Hurley
Page Views: 513 total, 6/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Oct 18, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up a short, right leaning crack then pull past a bulge to a ledge. Climb the steeper, sculptured face above to the top.

Location

Start about 30 feet to the right (toward Quail Springs) of the Mel Cracks at the next face. There is a large acacia (cat's claw) bush in front of the face.

Protection

Gear to a blue or purple Camalot to protect the route and medium to large cams and some slings to rig an anchor.

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Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
I am not very picky when it comes to climbs and am known to have done my own fair share of "PILES".

But this one takes the cake!

We did it yesterday and I agree with Russ.

We also felt it to be a 10. May 27, 2016
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Pretty darn gritty. My heart went pitter-patter as my feet went skitter-skatter. Apr 19, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10
I probably should have bombed this after I did it, it truly is a terrible route. But sometimesÂ… that sort of thing just cracks my shit up. I mean, who would put the effort into bolting something so lousy? I had to admit, I had fun climbing it mostly because it was just so damn bad and the rock was even worse. Plus it's only 30' long and has a ledge you could park a car on half way up. And it required a glue in because the rock is so lousy! Won't even hold a bolt.

The beta for this one is to apply as much surface area of your clothing as possible and slither up. Use the friction to hold yourself in place, and the ball bearings for upward progress.

For the cherry on top, have fun with that cats claw right at the base. THis one has it all! Jan 29, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
It's true. I know a piece of shit when I see it. Unlike some of the rabid new routers, I can actually tell what will be a crap line on even crappier rock before I put up yet another blight on the landscape. Jan 28, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Saw this today, and it is a travesty. A fucking glue in???? then some scrappy grainy moves to lay down sized ledge... then maybe 9 feet of actual climbing up a scabby headwall? At what point do you guys say "why bother?". Jan 27, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10
This climb has 4 bolts on it, the first is a glue in. Some engaging moves on the lower section. Standard Josh grain ball bearing detract from the climbing, as does the ledge halfway up the route you could park a car on. Still, some interesting and challenging moves on the bottom half. Felt more like 5.10 to me.

Hey JunkSweat, curious how you know the FA party names but not the name of this route? Nov 2, 2011