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Routes in Mel's Diner

Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bleu Plate Especial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kickin' Bach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pell Mel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Kevin Powell, Mike Waugh & Darryl Nakahira, April 1983
Page Views: 1,800 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A good climb with a fierce little crux.

After a few opening moves the crux arrives all too soon; from a good small wire placement, execute very iffy lie-away moves to gain a slot, small cam. From here good holds lead to a welcome rest and re-group. Small wires help with the confidence on a tricky high-step sequence that comes next. The crack now relents (large cam), so take a deep breath and enjoy.

Protection

Small wires, small cams, large cam. Bolt anchor.
Just climbed this again today. The crux felt harder than previously - I wouldn't be surprised if some rock broke off like the above poster stated. Still an awesome climb. Feb 19, 2017
I climbed this route with a guide who has been climbing at J-Tree for over 30 years, it was my first time climbing there. He did mention that recently a right foot broke off that was right where you wanted it at the first crux. He did say he thought it was harder than it was before. Also, another party was there and took a couple falls on their first piece and some rock ended up breaking off, in case anyone goes to the climb and wonders what happened. They could still place gear fine where the rock broke. Jan 23, 2017
I don't feel that this is height dependent. I think tall people just skip the sketchy moves. I'm 5'2", have a +0.5" ape index and climbed this clean on TR. Fun route. Is great fingers for girls like me with small hands. Apr 24, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Crux is height dependent, but protects well with a nut. I'm about 5'9" with a + index and am fully extended on the crux move. Let the tall person lead this one. Nov 6, 2007
Dustysdawg
  5.10b
Dustysdawg  
  5.10b
We did the Mels Cracks yesterday. The "Right Mel Crack" is a very fun climb, but it is too short. It was my first 10b/c lead. It is definitely easier and less sustained than the "Left Mels Crack" that I followed.I found the crux to be after the first bulge where you have to do some smears and a high step into the crack. The bottom would have been harder if I was shorter than 6'2. Dec 31, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
More of one move wonder and of lesser quality than the neighboring Left Mel Crack. The crux comes early on this and involves a reach into the bottom of a crack/pod (shorter climbers may find this move to be reachy and thus harder). Higher, another easier but interesting section is passed before it eases considerably. One star out of five. Nov 30, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.10b
Josh Beck  
  5.10b
Great climbing - would get more stars if it were longer. Excellent rock, excellent protection, fun climbing, I've done this and it's neighbor several times. Nov 5, 2004
Erik  
There are two bolts on top of this crack. The confusion is caused by the names. The right one is apparently the left one and the left one is the right one. So, this is actually the left one with the bolt anchor. Aug 17, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
We did this one yesterday and all enjoyed it. We did it on a top rope however (I know! Lazy). There are no anchors up top as mentioned and cams are the ticket. But it is very possible to sling the right hand rock some 15ft or so behind the top off with a couple of 50ft, looped either webbing or cord as we did. Not the best way to go however. But doable for those short on gear (Again we were lazy and left the rack in the truck.) Easy to climb up gully to the left. Also a set of bolts to do the crack to the left. Have fun! Apr 21, 2004
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Descend down a chimney to the left. Feb 3, 2003