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Routes in Mel's Diner

Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bleu Plate Especial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kickin' Bach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pell Mel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Quinn McCleod & Brian Sillasen, 9/86
Page Views: 629 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on an upper tier buttress to the right of boulder piles. A flaky looking crack that leads to a notch. It can be combined with "Other Voices".

Boulder-hop across from the top of "Other Voices" to find another steep one. Start up a thin crack (cams) to the right of a large thick undercling flake, this leads to a traverse left to the bottom of the main crack. The crack leans leftwards, a big sharp handrail (medium cam in crack) allows you to gain the crack, and good holds and exposed climbing leads to a rest on a large flake on the right. Step left from here and into the crux (small/medium cam) strenuous moves lead to a tricky finish.

Scramble off to the right.

Protection

Small to medium cams, medium cam anchor.

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
thought this was very fun and cool, even tho not the typical jamming crack. handrail sequence pretty rad. athletic moves, steep positions, and good pro up the main curving dihedral. like...a sport crack. the PG starting section warrants caution, to negotiate past the big flat downward pointing flake, the only non-solid chunk of rock, with other good placements avail. still a bit heady to string all that together, but it's all there. able to scramble off to climber's left, which seemed quicker to get back to elevated base. prob more convenient to just walk off to climber's right all the way down as mentioned if nothing been left at that terrace base Apr 2, 2015
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.9
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.9
Awkward climbing on questionable rock. Woot!? Oct 29, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
"Brian Piccolo (October 31, 1943 – June 16, 1970) was a professional football player for the Chicago Bears for four seasons. He died at the age of 26 from embryonal cell carcinoma, which was found as a very large tumor in his chest cavity. He was the subject of the 1971 movie Brian's Song." ~Wikipedia.org Sep 24, 2006
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
In retrospect I realise that I had more trouble using the "hand-rail" to get into the crack than I did at the crux, although Tony and Mike both breezed through that "hand-rail" section. Feb 8, 2003