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Routes in Mel's Diner

Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bleu Plate Especial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kickin' Bach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pell Mel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira, Alan Roberts, Kevin Powell & Mike Waugh, April 1983
Page Views: 1,592 total, 9/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the righthand crack.

A fun climb full of very cool moves.

Good little slots lead to the first impasse; a rather ominous bulge. Good technique pays dividends here and soon the next impasse is reached. Cool high step moves will pull you through this to the last impasse, a thought-provoking but not difficult mantle.

Pull over the top to a medium cam anchor.

Protection

Small wires, small cams, medium cams for anchor.

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Multiple ways to pull the crux. I've done it 3 different ways. Very slightly more sustained than Right Mel, but an easier crux (if you suss out the easiest way to pull it), especially for shorter people. Emphasize tips to 1" for the rack. Anchor takes from .75 to #3 camalot. Nov 6, 2007
Dustysdawg
  5.10c
Dustysdawg  
  5.10c
Followed this climb yesterday. It had some really tenuous moves. I found it about a grade harder than "Right Mels Crack", which I had just led. I think it is more like a 10c with the Right Mel Crack being solid 10b. Dec 31, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
More of a crack and more continuous than the neighboring Right Mel Crack. Starts up a thin right-slanting slanting crack and when a horizontal is reached the crux starts, which involves getting stood up while using flared finger jams or a lieback. Much easier but still interesting to the top. Two stars out of five. Nov 30, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.10b
Josh Beck  
  5.10b
Like it's neighbor, excellent rock, excellent gear and fun climbing. If only it were longer. Nov 5, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Then I suppose I mean the "left Mels Crack"? Hell! They're both great lines............ Apr 21, 2004
The Gray Tradster  
  5.10b
These climbs were (purposely?) misnamed. The Right Mel Crack is the one on the Left and vice versa. Apr 21, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Fun climb. Apr 21, 2004
Graham Roff
  5.10b
Graham Roff  
  5.10b
Solid crux at the bottom, rest of the route eases off a lot but keeps you thinking. Definitely a fun climb. Mar 19, 2004
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Descend down a chimney to the left. Feb 3, 2003