Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mel's Diner

Background Noise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bleu Plate Especial T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Earworm T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fifth Dimension, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hurly Burly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
I Love Brian Piccolo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kickin' Bach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Mel Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mel's Mantles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Modern Jazz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mumbles TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murmur Has It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Mutterers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Other Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overheard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pell Mel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Piranha T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power of Now, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Mel Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock & Roll Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Pretzel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whispers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kevin Powell and Darryl Hensel, April 1983
Page Views: 787 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Walk to the right around from the Mel Cracks, this climb is the last significant crack system before the crag peters out.

A steep route.

Ledges lead to the meat of the climb, a steep fingers to hand crack (small cam) which is followed to a nice hand-rail below the final bulge (comforting medium cam). Stepping left to good holds seems like the right thing to do, then head up from here. Sling a boulder for the belay.

Protection

Small and medium cams, sling a boulder for the anchor.

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
5.8
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
5.8
I figured I went off route, but after reading the description after having done the route, it seems I happened to follow the contributor's beta. Still stiff for the grade. Apr 21, 2015
Drederek
  5.7+
Drederek  
  5.7+
Thought this was very similar to Just Another Roadside Attraction, quality, length and steepness. Apr 22, 2014
Dave Kos
Temecula, CA
5.8+
Dave Kos   Temecula, CA
5.8+
Agree that this is stiff for a 5.7, even by JTree standards. Protects well, though, and is fun (but short.) Jan 23, 2012
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
  5.8+
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
  5.8+
Ya I hopped on this looking for a 5.7 like the Vogel Guide said. I was definitely interested, held my attention, angered my lady. I went back on toprope and tried lying back the top part, still hard Jtree 5.8/5.9 anywhere else fo sho.

Thought the route was short, fun, pumpy. Jan 3, 2011
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9-
Agreed that this was a bit harder than advertised. I felt .8+/.9- was more on target. Fun route and protects well. I really suggest a direct start - not the start off the block. A stopper will protect moves off the deck. Suggested on a sunny afternoon (if you're looking to get in the shade for a break. Walk down fine, just a little time consuming. Apr 12, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8+
This is a great crack and I found it to be quite pumpy - a little stiff for the grade. Worked me hard but loved every minute of it! Nov 30, 2007