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Routes in Indian Palisades Corridor

"Woody's Variation" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bitter Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cotton Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrell-Turner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hippo Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mumbling Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serpent Scales S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakes in the Grass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toe the Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Moccasin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wheat Chex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Willit Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,111 total · 30/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 11, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Short but sweet slab route on the lower (left) end of Indian Palisades Corridor -- duck around the right side of Willit Pillar, do a short scramble up to your left, and you're there -- almost directly behind the pillar. The climb ascends the middle of the face past an obvious line of bolts. It is well-bolted, classic Joshua Tree friction. Good practice for longer slab climbs like Double Dip, Stichter Quits, and Walk on the Wild Side. My only complaint is that it's too short!!

Vogel rates this climb at 5.5, but Bartlett calls it a 5.7. Splitting the difference and calling it 5.6 sounds about right to me.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts on the route; I believe there's a two-bolt anchor, although it's been a while.

Photos

Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
My son and I have done this route many times and find it to be a very enjoyable climb around sunset this glorious summer of 2003. We pack some food and hang out up top, feel the breeze, watch the changing light. I feel 5.6 is a fair rating. I have climbed it backwards before (toes towards the belayer on the ground). Then I feel a 5.7 rating is closer. One thing is for sure, in the late afternoon, it's a kick to run laps on. Jul 12, 2003
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
Today Jacob led his first time today on this slab. I congratulate him. 14yr old local kid that someday may well kick our old butts (Not just yet however). I have taught many peoples on this very slab the basics of friction, leading, top roping etc... It is in my eyes one of the best for begining climbers. Unfortunatly it is super hot in the summer. But winter is great as it is in the sun most of the day. Congratulations again Jacob for a fine lead. You're on your way now. Be smart and become an old/bold climber.......... Sep 13, 2004
jacob
  5.6
jacob  
  5.6
Great route, The photo is the wrong photo for it. This was my frist lead, 5 bolts on the face, I think there should be 6 though. 2 bolt anchor with a chain on top, One of the bolts might need to be replaced soon. Locker told me that so Its gotta be true.. one of the bolts on the face i think it was the 3rd was a little bit loose, which scared me. But i think its a great route to teach on.. Too bad its not a multi pitch... Go later in the evening because It was directly in the sun and was cooking our hands... Sep 14, 2004
Karen Bohl
Prescott
5.0
Karen Bohl   Prescott
5.0
It is not the climb to fear-it's-the approach. Jacob, there are too many bolts on it....since Locker can climb it backwards and today I sang some silly Everly brothers song as I lead it, I'd say downrate it to 5.0. Sep 19, 2004
72HW Holly
  5.7+
72HW Holly  
  5.7+
Really, really enjoyed this climb. Rolled out of the tent and headed over to this one after seeing some people on it the day before. On lead it felt like 5.7+ to my morning brain and feet, but later on top rope I simply ran up it with little effort. I would say this is a harder climb than Toe The Line by a long shot.

Absolutely recommended for those solid on 7's wanting to work on their head - you miss the move going up to the second bolt stance, you will deck. Great mind games! Feb 19, 2008
Smanson
Twentynine Palms, CA
  5.7
Smanson   Twentynine Palms, CA
  5.7
I thought this route was harder than the 5.9 Toe the line to the left of this climb! It was a challenging friction climb, but lot's of fun! Apr 7, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Whatever! Jun 26, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
I'd give it 5.7. There are a couple of small wire placements between bolts 3 and 4.

It looks like one could continue this route on the face above and right of the current anchor, there's even a horizontal for pro and a nice finishing ledge, it would need at least one more bolt to be in character with the rest of the route....clip bolt #5, step right and continue up the face. Feb 2, 2009
I second the 5.6 This is a great little confidence builder for newbie face/friction leaders. The first picture is the right side of I.P.C does anyone know the name/rating of the 4 bolt route just left of the center that starts below a small bulge with the first bolt about 20 feet up and ends on the pie plates and the small tree? Nov 2, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Found my old notes and figured out that I climbed this before it was in a guidebook (Wolfe), but is now in Vogel. I estimated the difficulty as "easier than Black Tide," and probably 5.6. Mar 11, 2011
Chris D
the couch
5.6
Chris D   the couch
5.6
5 bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Incredibly grippy rock makes this relatively low angle friction slab 5.6 or 5.7 instead of the harder climb it would be on smoother rock.

The skidder you'd take from just below the second bolt would get you about 15-20 feet to the deck, so be mindful. Jan 27, 2014
Lichney
 
Lichney  
 
Did the climb before noon, its a great route to get accustomed to for the rock texture in Joshua Tree. Great for a warm-up route and also beginners. I would call this route a 5.5 Jul 27, 2014
UpRope  
It is a sweet little route. There has got to be at least one 5.7 move in there, maybe right off the third bolt. Enjoyable lead and a superb intro to Josh friction. Mar 31, 2016

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