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Willit Slab

5.6, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 101 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Indian Cove Cam… > Indian Cove CG… > Indian Palisades Corr…
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Description

Short but sweet slab route on the lower (left) end of Indian Palisades Corridor -- duck around the right side of Willit Pillar, do a short scramble up to your left, and you're there -- almost directly behind the pillar. The climb ascends the middle of the face past an obvious line of bolts. It is well-bolted, classic Joshua Tree friction. Good practice for longer slab climbs like Double Dip, Stichter Quits, and Walk on the Wild Side. My only complaint is that it's too short!!

Vogel rates this climb at 5.5, but Bartlett calls it a 5.7. Splitting the difference and calling it 5.6 sounds about right to me.

Protection

5 bolts on the route; there's a two-bolt anchor for rappel.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fred Beckey, still leading at age 80+!
[Hide Photo] Fred Beckey, still leading at age 80+!
Indian Palisades Corridor
[Hide Photo] Indian Palisades Corridor
cedar joshua age 5, atop the Willit slab via TR.
[Hide Photo] cedar joshua age 5, atop the Willit slab via TR.
Connor scoping out the slab
[Hide Photo] Connor scoping out the slab
Awesome view from the top.
[Hide Photo] Awesome view from the top.
Racing to the top to clean on a 110 degree day. Fun.
[Hide Photo] Racing to the top to clean on a 110 degree day. Fun.
Anchored in at the top of Willit Slab. Looking down at my belayer, Kris Jacobsen.
[Hide Photo] Anchored in at the top of Willit Slab. Looking down at my belayer, Kris Jacobsen.
Willit Slab. <br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Willit Slab. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jacob
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Great route, The photo is the wrong photo for it. This was my frist lead, 5 bolts on the face, I think there should be 6 though. 2 bolt anchor with a chain on top, One of the bolts might need to be replaced soon. Locker told me that so Its gotta be true.. one of the bolts on the face i think it was the 3rd was a little bit loose, which scared me. But i think its a great route to teach on.. Too bad its not a multi pitch... Go later in the evening because It was directly in the sun and was cooking our hands... Sep 14, 2004
Karen Bohl
Prescott
5.0
[Hide Comment] It is not the climb to fear-it's-the approach. Jacob, there are too many bolts on it....since Locker can climb it backwards and today I sang some silly Everly brothers song as I lead it, I'd say downrate it to 5.0. Sep 19, 2004
72HW Holly
Minneapolis, MN
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Really, really enjoyed this climb. Rolled out of the tent and headed over to this one after seeing some people on it the day before. On lead it felt like 5.7+ to my morning brain and feet, but later on top rope I simply ran up it with little effort. I would say this is a harder climb than Toe The Line by a long shot.

Absolutely recommended for those solid on 7's wanting to work on their head - you miss the move going up to the second bolt stance, you will deck. Great mind games! Feb 19, 2008
Smanson
Twentynine Palms, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was harder than the 5.9 Toe the line to the left of this climb! It was a challenging friction climb, but lot's of fun! Apr 7, 2008
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Whatever! Jun 26, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I'd give it 5.7. There are a couple of small wire placements between bolts 3 and 4.

It looks like one could continue this route on the face above and right of the current anchor, there's even a horizontal for pro and a nice finishing ledge, it would need at least one more bolt to be in character with the rest of the route....clip bolt #5, step right and continue up the face. Feb 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] I second the 5.6 This is a great little confidence builder for newbie face/friction leaders. The first picture is the right side of I.P.C does anyone know the name/rating of the 4 bolt route just left of the center that starts below a small bulge with the first bolt about 20 feet up and ends on the pie plates and the small tree? Nov 2, 2009
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Found my old notes and figured out that I climbed this before it was in a guidebook (Wolfe), but is now in Vogel. I estimated the difficulty as "easier than Black Tide," and probably 5.6. Mar 11, 2011
Chris D
the couch
5.6
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts to an anchor with rap rings. Incredibly grippy rock makes this relatively low angle friction slab 5.6 or 5.7 instead of the harder climb it would be on smoother rock.

The skidder you'd take from just below the second bolt would get you about 15-20 feet to the deck, so be mindful. Jan 27, 2014
Lichney
 
[Hide Comment] Did the climb before noon, its a great route to get accustomed to for the rock texture in Joshua Tree. Great for a warm-up route and also beginners. I would call this route a 5.5 Jul 27, 2014
[Hide Comment] It is a sweet little route. There has got to be at least one 5.7 move in there, maybe right off the third bolt. Enjoyable lead and a superb intro to Josh friction. Mar 31, 2016
kaleb redden
fountain valley CA
[Hide Comment] solo'ed this today to run a line for my 5yo to TR it. he speed climber on TR without relying on the rope once for aid. great confidence booster for getting use to that JT friction. Oct 2, 2021