Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead)
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09365, -116.15436 |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, 3/87 (solo), bolted by - Louie Anderson & Bob Bealle, April 1989 |
| Page Views: | 3,045 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark J. Nelson on Oct 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Locate Water Moccasin (5.7); this is the well-bolted, left-arching friction route climbing the right edge of the brown section of the wall.
Eyes of Amber climbs past two bolts and a long runout, optionally protected with small trad gear, to the obvious ledge and tree.
A 50m rope is plenty to get you back to the ground, but the tree is on the small side of confidence-inspiring for a rappel anchor.
Vogel describes two routes (Chivalry's Not Dead, 5.7 and Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) in between Eyes of Amber and Water Moccasin. Neither route showed evidence of bolts or chalk. In fact, this description MIGHT be for Chivalry's Not Dead, but that just makes Eyes of Amber more ambiguous.



8 Comments