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Routes in Indian Palisades Corridor

"Woody's Variation" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bitter Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cotton Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrell-Turner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mumbling Bee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpent Scales S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakes in the Grass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toe the Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Moccasin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wheat Chex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Willit Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

This wall contains mostly moderate, short, friction routes. It's a mix of patina-covered, exfoliated, and relatively clean, coarse rock.

Getting There

From the Willit Pillar, just behind campsite #3, walk right and scramble through the boulders. This wall is actually the back side of the Varnished Wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Palisades Corridor

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Serpent Scales
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willit Slab
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Cotton Mouth
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Water Moccasin
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe the Line
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Serpent Scales 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Willit Slab 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Cotton Mouth 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X Trad
Water Moccasin 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Toe the Line 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
I'm not even high, and I cannot for the life of me figure out what the hell is what on this wall, but I was up there this and last weekend and climbed everything that went under .10 and found it to be an enjoyable wall to get a bunch of climbing in. Bolts and rap rings all over. Feb 2, 2014
can somebody tell me what about a route in Indian Palisades corridor, it is past wheat chex about as far as you can go to the right. I saw 2 bolts going over a small roof. Is this a mixed route or an unfinished route. Where does this route end? thanks Dec 1, 2010
Murf  
Damn that Vogel! And he rates Double cross at 5.7+! Jan 13, 2003
From my memory, and notes I made in my guidebooks:

Vogel describes Eyes of Amber as "ascends the brown face 25 feet left of Water Moccasin" and Chivalry's Not Dead as a "three-bolt route 15 feet right of Eyes of Amber," implying that it is only ten feet from Water Moccasin. He also describes a toprope (Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) between Chivalry's Not Dead and Water Moccasin.

Bartlett describes Water Moccasin as "20 feet right of Eyes of Amber," and lists a toprope (Snakes in the Grass, 5.8+) in between the two.

Based on these descriptions, and on the complete absence of a second bolted line left of Snakes in the Grass, I believe that Chivalry's Not Dead and Eyes of Amber are the same route. If I'm wrong, then the route I submitted as Eyes of Amber is more likely Chivalry's Not Dead, though there are no other bolted lines left of this all the way to Wheat Chex.

(This would not be the first time that Vogel described one route as two; witness "Cunning Linguist" and "We'll Get Them Little Pricks" on Nuclear Reactor Rock.)

Jan 13, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Quoted from the ASCA website: "Chivalry's Not Dead": Both protection bolts replaced. Note that a thin horizontal near the top, which appears to have once had a fixed pin, is now very difficult to protect without specialty gear - however, the climbing is easy, and the more difficult climbing by the first two bolts is already runout. ASCA 1/02 Jan 11, 2003

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