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Routes in Indian Palisades Corridor

"Woody's Variation" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bitter Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cotton Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrell-Turner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hippo Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mumbling Bee T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpent Scales S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakes in the Grass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toe the Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Moccasin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wheat Chex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Willit Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,741 total · 12/month
Shared By: David Cox on Dec 25, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun zig-zag crack. Start 10' left of Willit Slab climbing up a groove past an old relic of a bolt stud. Then make some moves left to a crux crack. Fun moves on clean rock makes this a fun one to do while hanging out in the corridor, but be solid on the bottom and middle part as its not to great on pro.

Protection

Pro to 2" Some thin pro can be placed before heading left but not much till then. A chain wrapped under a boulder was the anchor.We rapped down Willit Slab.

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.8- PG13
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.8- PG13
i found this route to be a really nice lead. the bottom has some runout sections between c3s on thin moves up a seam. the short crack at the top has bomber gear with bomber holds/jams. there is absolutely no way this climbing goes at 5.9. I would rate 8- at most. probably PG13 on secure climbing, especially if you are anticipating a 9. Better than the "classic" 6 next door and not much harder really. Nov 11, 2015
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Great pro in the crack up top, not much below it, but that climbing is really easy. There might be one move of .8 in the crack, nothing that I can imagine anyone would seriously call 5.9.

La Reina, 5.9, is a couple hundred feet away and is in a completely different league of difficulty that this thing. Feb 2, 2014
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.8
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
  5.8
"Lieback"...I guess, but I found jamming to be more fun, and easier, at the top. Gear is thin at the bottom and a little run-out after the first good piece (Green Alien) but you could get a micro-nut in if you like before the second good piece (another Green Alien) if you're a little nervous of the run-out. Jan 21, 2014
hikingdrew
Los Angeles, CA
 
hikingdrew   Los Angeles, CA
 
Lieback at the top is fun.. Sep 10, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
  5.6
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
  5.6
There is a rusty bolt beyond P1 anchors that would suggest a second pitch for this or Willit Slab.

Fun little route with easy moves to an easy lieback crack. Nov 13, 2011
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.8
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.8
An oddly placed bolt with no hanger still lies toward the start of this route. Try not to fall on it. I wish someone would yank the bolt.... it would pierce you if you fell on it... perhaps this danger adds to the 5.9 rating :-)
The crack is fun, but wished it was longer... Oct 3, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.8
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.8
I'd give it 5.8. Feb 2, 2009
72HW Holly
  5.9
72HW Holly  
  5.9
Since we had the Slab TR'd already, we took a run up this one. My personal rating stays with 5.9, which I think may be a nod to the lieback finish, which we skipped. The bottom 3/4's of the route was tons of fun and quite easy, though I'm sure it would be a different story on lead. Only saw one bolt, with no hanger, that seems to have been driven in the late 70's. Feb 19, 2008
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
This is a full sun no breeze route, perfect for a sunny cool morning in december. Nice layback finish thats easily protected. Jan 22, 2006

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