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Routes in Indian Palisades Corridor

"Woody's Variation" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bitter Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cotton Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harrell-Turner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hippo Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kansas S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mumbling Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serpent Scales S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shank, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakes in the Grass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toe the Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Moccasin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wheat Chex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Willit Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Harrell & Turner?
Page Views: 881 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is fun, but a scary lead. It's characterized by highsteps onto slopers and good smears. Located near the upper (right) end of the Indian Palisades Corridor, in the white section apparent in the picture attached.

The climb starts low and left of the first bolt, going up to it (10-), past it a ways (5.10b) and continuing up past moves of decreasing difficulty to join the anchors on Serpent Scales, a solid 2-bolt anchor on the belly of a bulge, just before 1/2 rope (0n a 60M).

The climb is fun and rewarding and gets 2 stars.

Protection

3 bolts, with a 5.10 crux getting to the first one. The rock is only reasonably solid to that point and a fall before the first clip would be a bad idea, yet within the realm of the very possible. A TR from the anchors after leading Serpent Scales is an option as well.

Photos

alex carey
  5.10b PG13
alex carey  
  5.10b PG13
Beta for me was using the closer right hand crimp with the thumb pinch and working those feet up the seam until the left hand can match the seam and the right hand goes to the mono pocket. Feb 5, 2018

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