Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Harrell & Turner?
Page Views: 917 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This route is fun, but a scary lead. It's characterized by highsteps onto slopers and good smears. Located near the upper (right) end of the Indian Palisades Corridor, in the white section apparent in the picture attached.

The climb starts low and left of the first bolt, going up to it (10-), past it a ways (5.10b) and continuing up past moves of decreasing difficulty to join the anchors on Serpent Scales, a solid 2-bolt anchor on the belly of a bulge, just before 1/2 rope (0n a 60M).

The climb is fun and rewarding and gets 2 stars.

Protection

3 bolts, with a 5.10 crux getting to the first one. The rock is only reasonably solid to that point and a fall before the first clip would be a bad idea, yet within the realm of the very possible. A TR from the anchors after leading Serpent Scales is an option as well.

Photos

alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b PG13
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10b PG13
Beta for me was using the closer right hand crimp with the thumb pinch and working those feet up the seam until the left hand can match the seam and the right hand goes to the mono pocket. Feb 5, 2018
tony grice  
 
Interesting mono pocket for " just the tip" came right when you need it, almost too perfect. Cool moves, on this climb. Neat crystals on the dike. Only tr for me. But it rounded out my experience on this wall. Dec 2, 2018