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Areas in Wawona

Jumping Rock Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mortar Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Oldsquaw Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Powerline Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Sphinx, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The most prominent feature is the Wawona Dome, a gorgeous, smooth wall of granite that looms over the small town. Chilnaualna Falls cascades down this feauture, feeding into the Merced, a fork of which flows through this largely ignored historical area, overshadowed in popularity by the valley.

Wawona has been mostly untouched by climbers for the last couple of decades, thus you'll find that many of the boulder problems and hidden trad and top rope climbs have become overgrown and dominated by moss and lichen. This little town has already seen its golden days of climbing, quiet as they were.

There are over a dozen climbs on the dome itself, with a bushwhack approach. More accessible climbing comes in the form of boulders, massive waterfall walls , and cliffs hidden throughout the area, all offering their own unique attractions. If you are headed to climb in the Valley, keep driving, but if you're planning on staying in the area, be sure to check out the small roadside crags and boulders. If you climb anything while you're here, go to the Oldsquaw Boulder a.k.a Mosquito Rock en route to the spectacular Swinging Bridge.

Area information in progress. Until then, use Mark and Shirley Spencer's "Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs" for routes, approaches, and detailed descriptions.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Follow Highway 41 from the southern park entrance. You'll notice the Wawona Hotel on the right and the golf course on the left. Most climbing access is located on the north side of this fork of the Merced River (you'll drive over the bridge shortly after passing the hotel). Continue down the highway for a few hundred yards for camping on the left. Permits for various camping locations and back country expeditions available near the hotel. Several roadside boulders are immediately apparent en route to Chilnualna Falls. Crags and bouldering areas are plentiful and well hidden amidst the trees and riverbeds.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wawona

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