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Areas in Wawona

Don Quixote Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Jumping Rock Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Mortar Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Oldsquaw Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Powerline Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Scorched Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sphinx, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Wawona Dome 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Quiet climbing on old Yosemite granite. Most routes and boulders have rotted from moss, lichen, fire, and several decades without heavy climbing traffic. That being said, this area still has plenty to offer in the way of classic bouldering lines, biggish wall adventures, and inspiring development potential (if you know where to look).

Much of the boulder problems described on this page are taken from Mark and Shirley Spencer's "Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs", and unfortunately fall short of modern standards for quality bouldering. The Old Squaw boulder, however, is definitely worth checking out.

It is worth noting that the odd, short, and exciting boulder problems, laughably short trad lines, and bushwhack multi pitch endeavors that characterize this area are a brilliant look into the early days of modern Yosemite climbing outside the valley.

In short, Wawona is a beautiful, cozy little getaway town that just happens to conceal some truly special climbing.

Getting There

Follow Highway 41 from the southern park entrance. You'll notice the Wawona Hotel on the right and the golf course on the left. Most climbing access is located on the north side of this fork of the Merced River (you'll drive over the bridge shortly after passing the hotel). Continue down the highway for a few hundred yards for camping on the left. Permits for various camping locations and back country expeditions available near the hotel. Several roadside boulders are immediately apparent en route to Chilnualna Falls. Crags and bouldering areas are plentiful and well hidden amidst the trees and riverbeds.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wawona

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 3
Cabin Fever
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sphinx Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cabin Fever Oldsquaw Boulder
 3
V3 6A Boulder
Sphinx Crack Sphinx
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
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