Oldsquaw Boulder Climbing
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Elevation: | 4,253 ft |
GPS: |
37.54592, -119.62676 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 6,307 total · 71/month |
Shared By: | Shawn Miller on Jan 1, 2017 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Also known as Mosquito Rock, this boulder is located in the middle of a quiet meadow. The area is perfectly flat, thus plenty of space to place pads, recline, and chill. There's about 5 or 6 climbs around the rock, though you may need to give some lines a good cleaning since it is seldom visited. The rock has a great warm up route, and several enjoyable climbs with some potentially difficult lines if you're creative.
BEWARE: Summer climbing here is either uncomfortably hot or plagued by mosquitos.
Several harder climbs on the central face and deep right corner that have not yet been logged.
Easy downclimb on the left side (obvious sloped face next to the tree above the warm up.)
Supposedly there's two more great boulders in the same are, likely near the overgrown fire access road on the hill below the Icehouse.
For more info and hints at more nearby hidden boulders, see Mark and Shirley Spencer's
"Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs".
BEWARE: Summer climbing here is either uncomfortably hot or plagued by mosquitos.
Several harder climbs on the central face and deep right corner that have not yet been logged.
Easy downclimb on the left side (obvious sloped face next to the tree above the warm up.)
Supposedly there's two more great boulders in the same are, likely near the overgrown fire access road on the hill below the Icehouse.
For more info and hints at more nearby hidden boulders, see Mark and Shirley Spencer's
"Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs".
Getting There
Located in a meadow less than a quarter mile from the Swinging Bridge parking area (north side of the river, access by turning onto Chilnualna Falls Road from Highway 41). Drive past the Chilnualna Falls parking lot and cross the steel/stone bridge over the rapids and drive straight until you see the signs for Swinging Bridge on the left.
Follow Chilnualna Falls Road as above, staying on the asphalt. Eventually the road splits, and the right side is marked with "Not a Through Street" and #L1 #L2 below it. Follow this, across the one lane bridge, and stay on the main dirt road (not marked). Eventually it'll have a turnaround that you can park at. Walk out the SE side on a well established trail. In a few mins you'll see the sign on your right and the boulder set back on your left. Easiest approach is from the NW side of the boulder. The meadow has more growth from the SW side. This day the top was covered with moss and cedar needles. The walk off is easy, the ground is flat, except for one root at the base of the N side. And the key hold halfway up Cabin Fever is loose. Pulling down is fine, but it'll make noise if you pull outward on it.
Follow Chilnualna Falls Road as above, staying on the asphalt. Eventually the road splits, and the right side is marked with "Not a Through Street" and #L1 #L2 below it. Follow this, across the one lane bridge, and stay on the main dirt road (not marked). Eventually it'll have a turnaround that you can park at. Walk out the SE side on a well established trail. In a few mins you'll see the sign on your right and the boulder set back on your left. Easiest approach is from the NW side of the boulder. The meadow has more growth from the SW side. This day the top was covered with moss and cedar needles. The walk off is easy, the ground is flat, except for one root at the base of the N side. And the key hold halfway up Cabin Fever is loose. Pulling down is fine, but it'll make noise if you pull outward on it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Oldsquaw Boulder
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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