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Wawona
California
> Yosemite NP
> Southern Yosemite
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Quiet climbing on old Yosemite granite. Most routes and boulders have rotted from moss, lichen, fire, and several decades without heavy climbing traffic. That being said, this area still has plenty to offer in the way of classic bouldering lines, biggish wall adventures, and inspiring development potential (if you know where to look).
Much of the boulder problems described on this page are taken from Mark and Shirley Spencer's "Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs", and unfortunately fall short of modern standards for quality bouldering. The Old Squaw boulder, however, is definitely worth checking out.
It is worth noting that the odd, short, and exciting boulder problems, laughably short trad lines, and bushwhack multi pitch endeavors that characterize this area are a brilliant look into the early days of modern Yosemite climbing outside the valley.
In short, Wawona is a beautiful, cozy little getaway town that just happens to conceal some truly special climbing.
Getting There
Follow Highway 41 from the southern park entrance. You'll notice the Wawona Hotel on the right and the golf course on the left. Most climbing access is located on the north side of this fork of the Merced River (you'll drive over the bridge shortly after passing the hotel). Continue down the highway for a few hundred yards for camping on the left. Permits for various camping locations and back country expeditions available near the hotel. Several roadside boulders are immediately apparent en route to Chilnualna Falls. Crags and bouldering areas are plentiful and well hidden amidst the trees and riverbeds.
[Hide Photo] Dave's Grotto, hidden in the mountainside above Wawona
[Hide Photo] The Jumping Rock Boulder during heavy flow, with Wawona Dome visible through the trees upstream.
[Hide Photo] Great crack, hands to ow, just east of the Lower Fall Trail
[Hide Photo] On top of the Lower Falls, and the classic Angel Wings 5.11b cliffside climb.
[Hide Photo] Wawona Dome looms ahead on the trail to Upper Chilnualna Falls.
[Hide Photo] The rapids below the Chilnualna Falls, feeding into the Merced. Photo taken from steel frame concrete bridge crossing the creek.