Wawona Dome Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,426 ft | 1,959 m |
GPS: |
37.55384, -119.61664 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 5,230 total · 65/month | |
Shared By: | Brian Prince on Apr 20, 2018 · Updates | |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Access Issue: Wawona Dome Peregrine Falcon closure, March-August
Details
The closure that used to, apparently, be voluntary has stepped up a notch. It's now included in the main Yosemite climbing closure list:
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…
Description
Countless climbers drive right under beautiful Wawona Dome all the time on their way to the Valley, yet most do not even know of its existence. Basically hidden from view while driving on highway 41, you have to really work to catch a glimpse of this beauty. Tales of a long and brush filled approach has also made it seem hard to get to, but the approach is pretty mellow imo, and last year's fire (South Fork Fire) eliminated most of the brush, for now. The climbing consists of 3-5 pitch routes that climb mixtures of cracks and face. What really makes this Dome special though is its amazingly featured face that's covered in knobs, dikes, and scoops. The rock is wonderful.
The falcon closure limits the season to fall and winter as the cliff gets full sun starting mid-morning and must be scorching in the summer. Like much of the valley, winter can be prime (despite its relatively higher elevation). Although some stuff remains open while the peregrines are nesting, a trip up would be hard to justify.
Erik Sloan has been responsible for some of the modern development and has put together the only real beta for the place with a rough overview of the routes and approach map:
http://wawona.yosemitebigwall.com/Wawona_Dome.html
The falcon closure limits the season to fall and winter as the cliff gets full sun starting mid-morning and must be scorching in the summer. Like much of the valley, winter can be prime (despite its relatively higher elevation). Although some stuff remains open while the peregrines are nesting, a trip up would be hard to justify.
Erik Sloan has been responsible for some of the modern development and has put together the only real beta for the place with a rough overview of the routes and approach map:
http://wawona.yosemitebigwall.com/Wawona_Dome.html
Getting There
Wawona Dome sits high above the town of Wawona. Turn onto the Chilnualna Falls road (north side of the highway 41 bridge in town) and drive through the main part of town. After 2 miles, the falls trailhead will be on your right. You can park here, or continue onto the now dirt road across a bridge and stay straight (signs for swinging bridge). Shortly, you'll see a two car carport on your left. Park around here in an empty lot (should be a climber's info sign), respecting private property.
Start hiking up towards the dome on an old and overgrown logging road that switchbacks its way up the hill. Eventually (after the 8th switchback), you'll come to an opening with a view of the dome and lots of cutdown manzanita in the middle of the road. Continue up until the manzanita is no longer cut down and the trail makes you tunnel under it. You'll come to a fork with a rock arrow pointing left. Go left. After maybe 50 yards the trail will dead end in thick manzanita. Head right 50 yards to get into a burn zone. Follow the burn area all the way to the base. It's possible to pick your way through it without any bushwhacking. You should end up right under Blue Moon. The old approach trail is essentially gone.
Start hiking up towards the dome on an old and overgrown logging road that switchbacks its way up the hill. Eventually (after the 8th switchback), you'll come to an opening with a view of the dome and lots of cutdown manzanita in the middle of the road. Continue up until the manzanita is no longer cut down and the trail makes you tunnel under it. You'll come to a fork with a rock arrow pointing left. Go left. After maybe 50 yards the trail will dead end in thick manzanita. Head right 50 yards to get into a burn zone. Follow the burn area all the way to the base. It's possible to pick your way through it without any bushwhacking. You should end up right under Blue Moon. The old approach trail is essentially gone.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wawona Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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