Mud Spring Wing Rock Climbing
Routes in Mud Spring Wing
|Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|GPS:||36.028, -115.461 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Apr 4, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionThe Mud Spring Wing is a series of south- and east-facing walls that sit on the southeast corner of Black Velvet Peak at the entrance to Mud Spring Canyon.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting There1) Look in your guidebook and identify the wall during the drive into Black Velvet Canyon. Also identify the corner of the "Schwalette" route as this will be an important landmark.
2) Park as for Black Velvet Canyon. Follow the main trail for a few hundred yards towards Black Velvet Canyon, but turn left at the first intersection which is the signed Black Velvet Mountain Bike Trail. This is just before the BV wag bag dispenser.
3) Follow this trail to a slight rise from which you can see an enormous pyramidal boulder in the distance at about 11 o'clock and slightly below your level. Continue following the trail until it turns hard left and begins descending towards this boulder.
4) Instead of continuing, break off the trail to the right (continuing more or less in the same direction - south - you were headed) and follow cairns through the desert crossing the very bottom of a very narrow, straight wash that leads steeply up the hillside towards the open book of the "Schwalette" route.
5) The easiest path from here follows tight zig-zags up the narrow ridge that forms the left shoulder of the wash.
This route has been well-cairned as of spring, 2015, but allow 45 minutes of slogging from the BV parking lot. See the approach map photo.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mud Spring Wing
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season