Elevation: 4,625 ft
GPS: 36.028, -115.461 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,323 total · 176/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 4, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Mud Spring Wing is a series of south- and east-facing walls that sit on the southeast corner of Black Velvet Peak at the entrance to Mud Spring Canyon.

Getting There

1) Look in your guidebook and identify the wall during the drive into Black Velvet Canyon. Also identify the corner of the "Schwalette" route as this will be an important landmark.

2) Park as for Black Velvet Canyon. Follow the main trail for a few hundred yards towards Black Velvet Canyon, but turn left at the first intersection which is the signed Black Velvet Mountain Bike Trail. This is just before the BV wag bag dispenser.

3) Follow this trail to a slight rise from which you can see an enormous pyramidal boulder in the distance at about 11 o'clock and slightly below your level. Continue following the trail until it turns hard left and begins descending towards this boulder.

4) Instead of continuing, break off the trail to the right (continuing more or less in the same direction - south - you were headed) and follow cairns through the desert crossing the very bottom of a very narrow, straight wash that leads steeply up the hillside towards the open book of the "Schwalette" route.

5) The easiest path from here follows tight zig-zags up the narrow ridge that forms the left shoulder of the wash.

This route has been well-cairned as of spring, 2015, but allow 45 minutes of slogging from the BV parking lot. See the approach map photo.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mud Spring Wing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Schwalli
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Beautiful Bastard
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
The Schwa
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Man of the People
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Spirit Air
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
The Long Riders
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 3
Fingers in the Honeypot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schwalli
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Beautiful Bastard
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Schwa
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Man of the People
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Spirit Air
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Long Riders
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Fingers in the Honeypot
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Mud Spring Wing »

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