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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The Mud Spring Wing is a series of south- and east-facing walls that sit on the southeast corner of Black Velvet Peak at the entrance to Mud Spring Canyon.

Getting There

1) Look in your guidebook and identify the wall during the drive into Black Velvet Canyon. Also identify the corner of the "Schwalette" route as this will be an important landmark.

2) Park as for Black Velvet Canyon. Follow the main trail for a few hundred yards towards Black Velvet Canyon, but turn left at the first intersection which is the signed Black Velvet Mountain Bike Trail. This is just before the BV wag bag dispenser.

3) Follow this trail to a slight rise from which you can see an enormous pyramidal boulder in the distance at about 11 o'clock and slightly below your level. Continue following the trail until it turns hard left and begins descending towards this boulder.

4) Instead of continuing, break off the trail to the right (continuing more or less in the same direction - south - you were headed) and follow cairns through the desert crossing the very bottom of a very narrow, straight wash that leads steeply up the hillside towards the open book of the "Schwalette" route.

5) The easiest path from here follows tight zig-zags up the narrow ridge that forms the left shoulder of the wash.

This route has been well-cairned as of spring, 2015, but allow 45 minutes of slogging from the BV parking lot. See the approach map photo.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mud Spring Wing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Schwalli
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Beautiful Bastard
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 14
The Schwa
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Man of the People
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Spirit Air
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
The Long Riders
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
 3
Fingers in the Honeypot
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schwalli
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Beautiful Bastard
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
The Schwa
 14
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Man of the People
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Spirit Air
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Long Riders
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Fingers in the Honeypot
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 Trad
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Photos

Weston L
NEVADASTAN
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
To update the approach beta a touch, you continue along the mountain bike trail until a huge pyramidal boulder on your left hand side. Then cross-country steeply and be unhappy, until you look up at the splitter...smile, and continue grunting. It is worth it. Jul 15, 2013

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