Avg: 3 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith|
|Page Views:||1,072 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.
Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.