Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith
Page Views: 1,072 total · 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof.

Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.

Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.

Protection

A single set from 0.3 Camalot to #4 Camalot plus as many 000 C3's as you can find. I had two, but four would not go unused. Black Aliens, grey TCU's, and 0.1 Camalots are all just a touch too big. Also, bring RP's.

Photos