All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Mud Spring Canyon > Mud Spring Wing

The Long Riders

Name: The Long Riders
Rating: 3.1

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beautiful Bastard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Man of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS:	36.02788, -115.46107
FA:	Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith
Page Views:	1,714 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof.

Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.

Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.

Protection

A single set from 0.3 Camalot to #4 Camalot plus as many 000 C3's as you can find. I had two, but four would not go unused. Black Aliens, grey TCU's, and 0.1 Camalots are all just a touch too big. Also, bring RP's.