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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith
Page Views: 345 total · 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof.

Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.

Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.


A single set from 0.3 Camalot to #4 Camalot plus as many 000 C3's as you can find. I had two, but four would not go unused. Black Aliens, grey TCU's, and 0.1 Camalots are all just a touch too big. Also, bring RP's.


No pitons were used on the FA. Just the gear available in 1982....mostly RP's
Remember some wild and wide stemming though Apr 26, 2016