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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 263 total · 20/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 18, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Fingers in the Honeypot is a line that, in my opinion, is undeserving of the recommendation found in Red Rocks - A Climber's Guide II. The line is squeezed between two much better climbs, has some inexplicably unprotected stretches of climbing, is much harder than it's given rating, and has much hollow rock on the upper two thirds of the route.

Begin by climbing past 5 tightly-spaced bolts. Thin. Not much to work with here. Above this, the bolts end in favor of sporadic and sketchy RP placements. More insecure, thin climbing leads to easier climbing that wanders back and forth up crunchy features before the route finally joins the upper few bolts of Man of the People.

Protection

A light rack, but include RP's and perhaps check this thing out on TR first?

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harrison t
Black Hills, SD
  5.12+ PG13
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
  5.12+ PG13
I found this route to be super fun, engaging, and well deserving of the guidebook recommendation. Yes the bottom seemed quite hard for the grade. Frustrating at first, but flows nicely once you figure it out.. and very well protected by bolts. You get a decent stance to put in 2 or 3 good Rps before you bust through the '12a' section, which is over rather quickly and then there is an opportunity for more Rps. Just make sure you follow the guidebook instructions to bring a few sets of Rps and to traverse a bit left to the 'hairline crack' a ways up there for some good pro. Yes there is some hollow rock up high, but there are plenty of other routes in RR that share that quality. Be prepared to wander a bit and hunt down some creative placements.
... Just another opinion.

It was definitley better than 'Spirit Air' to its left, which I thought the upper few bolts of white sandy slab climbing on that ruined the whole route. Dec 22, 2016