Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
Routes in Mud Spring Wing
|Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Herbst, 1977|
|Page Views:||3,354 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||Jason D. Martin on Dec 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club. This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others.
The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.
The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy. The best way up is up to you.
The second pitch is the main event. Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks. There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top.
Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.