All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Mud Spring Canyon > Mud Spring Wing

The Schwa

Name: The Schwa
Rating: 3.5

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in Mud Spring Wing

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beautiful Bastard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Man of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.02788, -115.46107
FA:	Joe Herbst, 1977
Page Views:	5,984 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Jason D. Martin on Dec 12, 2006
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

The Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club. This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others.

The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.

The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side is somewhat brushy. The best way up is up to you.

The second pitch is the main event. Climb up the central crack as it goes from tight jams to hand-stacks. There is a diving board ledge in the middle of the second pitch where you can shake-out and relax before committing to the forty-foot off-width you'll climb to obtain the top.

Two sixty-meter ropes will get you to the ground.