Avg: 3 from 6 votes
Routes in Mud Spring Wing
|Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||FA: Unknown, real name unknown as well|
|Page Views:||1,304 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Jon O'Brien on Jan 31, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Do you know my daddy?The climb is the right facing corner apprx. 20 ft. left of the start of the schwa. this has apparently been climbed by many. The obvious "death block" is actually quite secure at the start, we could not forcibly trundle it.
The climb has several, well-protected cruxes at the grade but it is not difficult for the grade, some may say 9.
This climb was very likely done and forgotten, we felt it was way too good and a perfect warm-up for the schwa so we are reporting it. the name fits well until we find any possible true FA info.
there are several other forgotten gems in this area. any FA info would be great. the rock here is pristine. rhonestone cowboys, for instance, looks outstanding... killer winter crag off the beaten path.
How do I get there?gaining the area is not as pleasant as one might think.
from black velvet parking head left down the mountain bike trail at the split entrance to black velvet. continue through trippy terrain for 20 mins until you reach a very large boulder on the trail that is further away than you'd like to walk. from the boulder, look up and spy the large roofs that mark the bend from east to south in the cliff. bushwhack up the long, steep hill trying to find the path of least resistance occasionally finding game trails. the hike is a push right up to the base of the wall but you will likely see bighorns and the area was a joy on an otherwise freezing day. (1.28.12)
i feel the approach took us closer to 60 mins. to onsight, but could be done in less time with experience. we jokingly suspected the hill proper is about 3 x's the hill that guards T sands/ ixtlan...
Protectionsingle rack to 4''. stoppers. 2-3 yellow alien size. 2-3 slings. (G rated protection level on this one)
there is an old bolt at the top-out located about 12 ft. left of the route. there is no way to back up this bolt. i made an anchor below and clipped it loose to test the bolt and the bolt seems 'ok'. a proper station would be ideal.