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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Unknown, real name unknown as well
Page Views: 1,304 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jon O'Brien on Jan 31, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Do you know my daddy?

The climb is the right facing corner apprx. 20 ft. left of the start of the schwa. this has apparently been climbed by many. The obvious "death block" is actually quite secure at the start, we could not forcibly trundle it.

The climb has several, well-protected cruxes at the grade but it is not difficult for the grade, some may say 9.

This climb was very likely done and forgotten, we felt it was way too good and a perfect warm-up for the schwa so we are reporting it. the name fits well until we find any possible true FA info.

there are several other forgotten gems in this area. any FA info would be great. the rock here is pristine. rhonestone cowboys, for instance, looks outstanding... killer winter crag off the beaten path.

How do I get there?

gaining the area is not as pleasant as one might think.

from black velvet parking head left down the mountain bike trail at the split entrance to black velvet. continue through trippy terrain for 20 mins until you reach a very large boulder on the trail that is further away than you'd like to walk. from the boulder, look up and spy the large roofs that mark the bend from east to south in the cliff. bushwhack up the long, steep hill trying to find the path of least resistance occasionally finding game trails. the hike is a push right up to the base of the wall but you will likely see bighorns and the area was a joy on an otherwise freezing day. (1.28.12)

i feel the approach took us closer to 60 mins. to onsight, but could be done in less time with experience. we jokingly suspected the hill proper is about 3 x's the hill that guards T sands/ ixtlan...

Protection

single rack to 4''. stoppers. 2-3 yellow alien size. 2-3 slings. (G rated protection level on this one)

there is an old bolt at the top-out located about 12 ft. left of the route. there is no way to back up this bolt. i made an anchor below and clipped it loose to test the bolt and the bolt seems 'ok'. a proper station would be ideal.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
A great pitch- super fun climbing with really good protection for most of it. I wanted a double set of finger sized stuff for the first pitch (blue and grey camalots in particular), and a good selection of medium/large stoppers to supplement.

This area is pretty old school- I thought the first pitch was 5.10a, 5.9 is a bit of a sandbag in relation to most areas in Red Rock.

For reference- there is now a good two bolt anchor with chains on top the first pitch- you dont have to use the janky old bolt and tat that is still up there. Apr 4, 2016
Josh Janes    
 
The second pitch of this route (5.10d), which can easily be linked as one long pitch from the ground, is excellent. From the intermediate anchor, continue up a steep headwall with good gear and holds. From the highest anchor, one can lower all the way to the ground with an 80m rope (otherwise lower twice). A single set of cams from small to #2 or #3 Camalot, with a few extra fingers-sized pieces, is adequate for the linkup. Apr 4, 2016