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Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Beautiful Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man of the People S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 47 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Townsend on Mar 31, 2018
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

A nice moderate in an out-of-the-way location, quite well protected. Pull a couple of short bulges at the beginning (crux, #3 Camalot is nice but not essential), enjoy the steep corner, then trend up and right to the Hangman’s House anchor.

Location

This climb follows a shallow corner system on the next arete left of Gadger’s Edge (and also left of Hangman’s House, a very impressive steep corner with bolts visible on the underside of an overhang at the top). It’s pretty much the leftmost good rock on this section of the crag. Scramble up onto a ledge atop a block to start.

Descent is via the bolts atop Hangman’s House, just to the right at the top. It’s quite awkward getting to this anchor and there isn’t really a stance, so probably best to lower.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Two-bolt top anchor.

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