All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Mud Spring Canyon > Mud Spring Wing

Mito

Name: Mito
Rating: 2.3

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Mud Spring Wing

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beautiful Bastard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Fingers in the Honeypot T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Gadgers Edge T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Jagged Edge, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Long Riders, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Man of the People S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Schwa, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Schwalli T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Schwallow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Spirit Air S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 215 ft (65 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	36.02788, -115.46107
FA:	Herbst/Kaufman
Page Views:	937 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Rprops on Jan 3, 2019
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

Classic Herbst climbing on nice rock.
P1. 35 meters. Scramble and jam up cracks and ledges, then across a slab to a 4" crack. Real crack moves (arm bar, fists, stacks, dealer's choice) lead up to easier face and crack, and a small ledge. Belay off gear (several mediocre small pieces or use a #3 or #4 if you saved one).
P2. 35 meters. Straight up the crack, many sizes from #1-#4 camalot. At the top of the crack there is a bail anchor around a block. We elected to skip this, not believing a single 70m rope would reach the slabby ledge. Instead we clipped the anchor and traversed left and up across the face (nuts) to the base of a chimney. Belay off any sized cams. Easier than the previous pitch, but maybe more thoughtful.

P3. 15 meters. (To reach the end of the Last Hurrah) Climb the chimney, which is fun and easy. At the top move left and belay on the ledge. 2 bolts at your feet or build your own.

Rap straight down The Last Hurrah with a single rope.

We climbed this route as a warmup to the sport routes on the ledge. I would recommend the 2nd pitch of Last Hurrah as well, for some stellar 5.8 hand crack.