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State Brook Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in State Brook

L › R R › L A › Z

	Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bear Den, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Berlys Arête T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Butter My Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Lost Boys T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Priest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Scare Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Three Lions T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tombstone Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Wally T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Welcome to State Brook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	2,345 ft	715 m
GPS:	43.26951, -74.56834 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	29,232 total · 237/month
Shared By:	Benjamin Brooke on Oct 18, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

State Brook is a newly developed cliff (2013/2014) located in the town of Arietta. The cliff faces northwest which makes it a great hot weather destination. There are 30+ routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty, as well as a few open projects. The climbing is single pitch with a mix of crack and face climbing up to 100'. The cliff features a bit of everything: thin technical face climbing, roof pulling, hand cracks, OW cracks and even a full length chimney. All climbs have two bolt anchors.

I would expect to run into a party or two on nice weather weekends but, as with most Adk crags, I wouldn't expect to ever see a crowd.

The rock quality is very good. Solid and grippy similar to nearby Lost T cliff. Many of the routes are still a little bit dirty, but should clean up with some more traffic. I would say bring a wire brush to be on the safe side. This is not to take away from the massive effort the Arietta Team has done to make State Brook easy to access, safe and an all around fun place to climb. I'd like to see a pic of the place before development began.

There is plenty of information out there with full route descriptions and directions to the cliff. The Arietta Team has posted a downloadable PDF file here: thomannengineering.com/arie…

Adirondack Rock has information as well:

http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm#SM_State_Brook and a new digital guidebook available in the Gunks+ app.

Getting There

Let the fun begin. The parking is on the west shoulder of route 10. Coming from the south this is 7.3 miles north of the intersection of route 10 and route 29A. The key landmark is a driveway on the east side of 10 that drops down to a small cabin and lean to. Park directly across the road from this. If you pass a bright red log cabin on the right turn around. The first cabin can be a little tough to see. Pick up the trail on the same side as you park and follow it. After a few minutes cross a snowmobile trail. Follow the well defined path for about 35 minutes reaching the cliff near the left end.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at State Brook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 5 ● Sully's Success Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● The Success of Sully's Bride Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 23 ● The Inverted Englishman Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 15 ● Hollie's High Step Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 13 ● Butter My Biscuit Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Scare Factory Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 12 ● Wally Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 16 ● The Priest Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● Monsters Inc Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 11 ● Three Lions Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Batman has it in for Robin Trad, TR