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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Deb Redmond
Page Views: 452 total, 12/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 18, 2014 with updates
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Welcome to the abyss. A full length chimney, a unique route. Watch out for moisture and slimy holds. Chimney and stem your way up. The crux in my opinion comes near the top where chimney narrows and one must negotiate the chockstones and move right to the anchors. Apparently, small peeps can fit through the gap in the chockstones, I wasn't about to try that.

Location

A chimney with two chockstones at the very top. A line of bolts leads up the right hand wall.

Protection

Advertised as a sport route but bringing a small rack isn't a bad idea especially if it is moist or you are unfamiliar with chimney climbing. 7 bolts. Bolt anchors.
I led this last week and at 185 pounds and 5'8" I had no trouble getting left of the chock stones at the top and out the squeeze chimney exit. In fact I would recommend that exit over getting out to the bolts otherwise. If you have ever been on Updraft (5.5) in the Gunks, it's wider than that. This is a FINE chimney climb, though! And at 90 feet it's one of the longest sustained chimney climbs around. I'd still call it a 5.7, but I climbed it on a dry day... Jul 21, 2015
I find chimneys SO spooky, especially wide ones like this. There's just so much AIR under you.

Glad to see the + added to the grade, but what do I know; I get wigged out by chimneys. Fantastic line though. Jul 13, 2015