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Routes in Statebrook

Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Berlys ArĂȘte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Bro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dysphemism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Evil Twin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gary Goes Home Crying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hollie's High Step T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inverted Englishman, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monsters Inc T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Poopers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Poopers Backside T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only the Toad Knows T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Perverted Polishman, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Snake in the Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sulley's Belay T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sully's Success T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Thing 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thing 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Lions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Uncle Hal Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Hal's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unnamed Project T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Welcome to Statebrook T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Statebrook Team
Page Views: 316 total · 8/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Oct 18, 2014
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Nice crack climbing. Stupid tree. Work up the obvious crack with good jams to a stupid tree growing out of the crack. Either traverse right a few feet and face climb, or make a big move reaching past the tree to better jams. You will be immediately stuck by lightning if you use the tree for upward progress. Both paths lead to a stance below a wide flared crack. Protect (optional big cam) and jam up to jugs and a good ledge. Continue straight up to high anchors.

It is also possible to traverse left to the anchors of Bowline With A Blowjob Finish.

Location

A little right of where the approach trail meets the cliff. A small evergreen tree is growing out of the crack 40' off the deck. Left of a depression with opposing corners.

Protection

Singles to 3". A larger cam could be used but isn't a requirement. Bolt anchors.

Photos

Brian Murphy  
 
Fun route. Was not struck by lightening Aug 25, 2015
I was able to get a very good #1 Camalot in the crack above the crux overhang. I had a big (4") cam on me but really couldn't see that being the best piece for that move.

No problem passing the tree. I did sling it though.

Nicest route we did on the cliff today IMO. Jul 13, 2015